streets, of one of the most colourful
cities in the world, are a photographer’s delight, with every turn
framing a postcard view.
Colonial colours
Cobbled street upon cobbled
alleyway features a blaze of rainbowpainted houses, striking ancient
churches and deeply historical monuments, centring on a large and very
local fresh market, steeped in energy.
Before dawn at 5.30am, I leave
Hotel Plaza Colon, the grand dame
positioned in the epicentre of Parque
Centrale, to wander the streets
with my camera. I soon lose myself
in glorious dawn light bathing the
intertwining back streets shades
of gold. At this hour, the first rays
breathe warmth into entire rows
of houses, illuminating painted
facades of electric blue, neon pink
and emerald green. People grin and
politely greet me, ‘buenos dias’ as
they see me crouching, kneeling or
wedged in an alleyway taking photographs, appearing accustomed to the
photographer’s practice. Every dawn,
I find new wonderment.
The pace changes as I head towards
the vegetable market, steeped in
vibrancy and mayhem. Old men
enjoy their first smoke of the day,
perched on wooden carts, soon
to be their portable stalls, whilst
entire families ride by on an antique
bicycle and cars begin to weave
through the outpouring of trucks
offloading cartons of fruit and veg.
The closer I get, the more hectic it
becomes. I sneak into the covered
indoor section; a mind-boggling
maze of dingy narrow arteries, lined
by plantain and potato stalls. Deeper
in, I arrive at a single-file crossing,
which requires great focus to dodge
hazards. Boys transport boxes of
goods on their heads in a hurry,
stall-women swap change and earlybirds eagerly snap up fresh morning
produce. Eventually, the stifling
warren opens up to an insanely busy
outdoor market, with little room to
manoeuvre between dogs, bikes,
people and goods. As I stand to
one side and photograph groups
of women, they laugh and smile,
whilst displaying natural agility and
strength, managing heavy bundles of
goods whilst multi-tasking customers
and crowds. It’s inspirational. The
warmth of the people is remarkable,
as the crowd is jolly despite the
morning madness.
Afternoons are hot, so my guide
Juan Bosco Ortega, the ‘second
longest running guide in Nicaragua,’
beaten only by a 90-year-old, regales
me with eons of history as we take
shelter inside churches, museums
and monasteries. In Granada, where
history is its core, and which has
remained true to its original self, Juan
Bosco is in his element. Lingering
in the likes of Iglesia La Merced,
originating in 1539 and with a façade
rebuilt in 1781 after a pirate invasion,
I marvel whilst Juan Bosco sweettalks the caretaker into allowing us
up into the bell tower. The views
expand over the Granada horizon.
Superior Granada
Back at Hotel Plaza Colon, I luxuriate
on my picture-perfect terrace,
overlooking the most superior view
in Granada – dusk over the canary
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