it’s rustic setup with the tastiest fish and chips
around.
Grandeur of the Garden
Route
Romancing the Cape Winelands
At the foot of South Africa, a 150-mile band
of land borders the Indian Ocean in dramatic
style before snaking through inner mountains. Deserted wide white sands, a tangle of
forested plains, remote headlands and hairpin
bends make for one thrilling adventure. semiarid mountains, isolated rivers swooping
down deep dark gorges and coastal wetlands
to unhurried sleepy towns: the Garden Route
is revered the world over and with very
good reason. Taking in the almighty natural
beauty of the Winelands of Franschoek and
Stellenbosch, en route, is a major bonus, with
some of the best food, drink and scenery on
the planet.
Flavours of Franschhoek
Scattered vineyards flirt with mythical mountains, enhanced by fragrant foliage, to create
an intoxicating town (in every way). This headiness is infused in all flavours of Franschhoek
and pours out of every crevice, from the
gourmet restaurant s flooding the main street
to the wine estates rippling through scenic
surrounds and the coterie of colourful guesthouses, abounding in artistic flair and bespoke
design. Somehow, this all feels unhurried and
calm, with Franschhoek reclaiming a peaceful
pace of life. What else would one expect of
the legacy of the French Hugeuenots? They
first settled here 300 years ago, bringing with
them their winemaking skills and passion for
world-class food. The legacy lives on stronger
than ever.
I amble into small boutique wine estates and
large world-famed names. Of note, Moreson,
Boschendal and La Motte are well-established
404
and offer organized tours and expert tastings.
Follow up with sumptuous al-fresco luncheons
amidst their own lemon grove and flowerfilled gardens. The Winelands are an effortless
laid-back affair. Visit at your own pace and take
your own time. I pre-book tastings at smaller
boutique estates such as Stony Brook and My
Wyn. Franschhoek is small and very easy to
navigate, never taking more than 20 minutes
by car from A to B. I stock up on some bottles,
which will come of age in the next 2-5 years and
others which will only mature with time: plump
reds, elegant whites and sparkling delights.
The Wine & Gourmet Capital of South Africa
indulges culinary delight, including a roll
call of acclaimed award-winning chefs. My
highlight comes at Foliage, the recent offering
of esteemed Chef Chris Erasmus. Foliage is
his fusion of fresh flavours and innovation in
a homely and non-pretentious atmosphere.
Seated right by his open-plan kitchen, I watch
him create my meals, which arrive like plates of
art, including freshly foraged ingredients. Every
now and then, Chris tries something novel and
offers it out to guests to try, whilst describing
his inspiration for the flavours or the source of
the ingredients; his passion is second to none.
At the end of the night, after bidding guests
goodnight, I peer in as he sponges down the
kitchen, by hand, himself. This level of love is
translated into his food, and is his distinct USP.
Of practical note, car parking is abundant in
Franschhoek and most hotels and guesthouses
offer pick-up and drop off, allowing you to
indulge in the best of the Winelands. There's
even a hop-on and off wine tram during the
day to get between major wine estates.
For the best sunset in town, drive up the
Franschhoek Pass, a curving road hugging a
mountain. The real glow appears beyond the
descent of the sun, when the surrounding
valley and mountains are cast in a molten rose
sheen. It is the perfect spot for a toast with my
husband, with a little bottle of bubbles.
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