ROMANCING THE ISLE
FIONA MCINTOSH FINDS MOZAMBIQUE ’ S LOST PEARL
It ’ s nearly midnight . Young men glistening with sweat jump over the glowing embers of a fire . Today marks the anniversary of Ibo Island , the somewhat decaying , grandiose former capital of Mozambique ’ s Cabo Delgado province . I ’ ve escaped the Cape winter to join the festivities , feasting on fresh seafood and coconut rice , watching traditional dancing and dhow-sailing races and revelling with colourfully dressed islanders at noisy street parties .
Though part of the Quirimbas Archipelago – the string of picturesque islands that stretches from Pemba in northern Mozambique to the Tanzanian border – Ibo is not your typical tropical escape . There ’ s not even a beach , though I had earlier travelled on an elegant wooden dhow to a golden sandbank lapped by the warm Indian Ocean . Rather , Ibo is somewhere for romantics and discerning travellers , those who want to wander around and soak up its history .
We arrived by boat , following the deep channel that leads to the sheltered harbour . It seemed a fitting way to visit an island that has played such a pivotal role in ancient maritime trade . Guarding the harbour mouth is the grand , imposing old Fort of São João Baptista , built by the Portuguese in 1791 to defend themselves against the Arabs and Madagascan pirates .
Quirimbas colours .
After checking in at Ibo Island Lodge , a collection of renovated old mansions splashed with colourful bougainvillea , we headed out on a guided tour of the island . Goats grazed outside the 18th-century whitewashed church of Nossa Senhora do Rosario ; most of the lovely Portuguese villas here have changed little over the centuries . Once a major Arab and Portuguese trading centre , Ibo ’ s population fell from 37 000 , when the Portuguese left in 1974 , to under 4 000 . It ’ s now a peaceful backwater where tourism is growing slowly and sustainably . Wandering around the ramparts and thick-walled rooms of the fort , the weight of history bears down on me , much as it does in Zanzibar ’ s Stone Town . A major port for ivory , arms and “ black ivory ” – slaves brought from the interior – Ibo was of significant importance to Arab , Indian , Chinese and Portuguese traders . Slaves were held in this fortress during the colonial period leading up to independence and São João was used as a prison . A chilling inscription in the tribunal room reads “ Enter Alive , Leave Dead ”. It makes me shudder despite the baking heat . Today , however , the fort buzzes with life . Kids play outside and local artists smelt and craft silver jewellery . I admire their skills and choose an exquisite filigree silver necklace to take home .
© IBO ISLAND LODGE
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THE INTOXICATING AROMA LEADS US TO A ROASTER , WHERE I SAMPLE THE DELICIOUS LOCAL BREW . IBO COFFEE GROWS WILD ON THE ISLAND AND IS HIGHLY SOUGHT AFTER
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© SHUTTERSTOCK
Our tour continues through the town centre , past gnarled trees whose roots have engulfed derelict buildings and small galleries displaying the arts and crafts of the Makonde people . The intoxicating aroma of coffee leads us to a roaster , where I sample the delicious local brew .
30 // MAKE MEMORIES FOR LIFE