• E N R O U T E / / D E S T I N A T I O N P I C K
Above : The iconic Bosphorus Bridge . Below : Youth Day celebrations .
Bazaar , which has become something of a tourist trap . Next up is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque – or the Blue Mosque as it is commonly known , owing to the 20 000 hand-painted ceramic tiles in blue-hued tulip designs that line the interior of the mosque . The mosque took seven years to build back in 1609 and is famed for its five main domes , six minarets and eight secondary domes . Quite how they managed this architectural feat 400 years ago is astounding , and I spend my hour in this peaceful place in silent awe . Alongside the manicured lawns and swept courtyards opposite the Blue Mosque lies Istanbul ’ s other main
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architectural wonder , the Hagia Sophia ( or Aya Sofya ). More than 10 000 artisans and labourers worked non-stop to build this domed behemoth , and they did it in record time : five years , 10 months and four days . Built in 537 AD , it was the Roman Empire ’ s first Christian Cathedral and is one of the greatest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture . Marble pillars hold up the curved domes , while walls were richly decorated with intricate mosaics depicting the Virgin Mother , Jesus , saints and emperors and empresses . I say “ were ” because when the Ottomans conquered Constantinople and converted the church into a mosque in 1453 , the mosaics and other artwork depicting Christianity were plastered and painted over with beautiful Islamic artwork . And so it remained until Turkey became an independent republic in 1923 , and a few years later the mosque was converted into a secular heritage site . Restoration work has been underway ever since and the Byzantine mosaics have been slowly uncovered . I look up to see one of four 700-year-old cherub faces peeping out coyly from plaster that is being painstakingly chipped away . It ’ s truly a work in progress and on my next trip I will no doubt be able to see all four angels uncovered , alongside new discoveries .
FATHER OF THE TURKS
It ’ s my second and final night in Istanbul , so I return to hipsterville . It turns out to be an auspicious day , May 19th , Youth and Sports Day in Turkey . It ’ s a national holiday to commemorate the beginning of the Turkish War of Independence in 1919 , led by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk , the Turkish army officer who became the first President of the Republic of Turkey until his death in 1938 . Atatürk is the name given to him by the Republic ’ s parliament . It means “ Father of the Turks ”, as he is regarded as the founder of modern secular Turkey due to his rigorous programme of political , economic and cultural reform . Think of Atatürk as Turkey ’ s Nelson Mandela – he ’ s just as widely revered , especially by Istanbulians , many of whom fear that the free , secular state he created is under threat by the controversial rule of current president Recep Tayyip Erdoğan . Turkey ’ s fire-engine-red flag with crisp white crescent moon and star is on show from every building tonight and the young are out in force on this most important of Turkey ’ s national days , reasserting their rights in bars and clubs all down Istiklal Street . They spill into the sidestreets of my newfound hipsterville . Its terraced streets are teeming with tattoos , piercings , black skinny jeans and , yes , even man-buns . There ’ s a proud , fierce patriotism on display as Istanbulians wave national flags and sing songs celebrating this diverse country . I join the fray because , even on a whirlwind trip , you can ’ t but help feel a part of Istanbul .
38 // MAKE MEMORIES FOR LIFE