Main pic:
You want your knees and ankles to work
like those of a skier, or motocross rider,
absorbing all the boards movements so
the upper body remains motionless.
Board design
Before getting into these elements, let’s just address board design briefly, as this can contribute in a
large way to the degree that you require combinations of the above elements.
Firstly, wider boards are not more stable, despite rumors to the contrary. They may initially feel more stable
when standing on them on a nice flat lake (and in many ways are more stable on a flat lake), but as soon as
you get into whitewater, the very features that make the board seem stable, take away stability.
The further a rail is from the centreline, the harder it is to lift that rail out of the water so it doesn’t catch.
The more likely water rushing from the side will catch it, and the more force (moment arm) the water will
have on the rail, and thus on you.
Balance comes from subtle movements, and adjustments. Wide boards require more defined, forceful
movements to get them to respond, and this is a primary destabilizing factor. Any exaggerated, powerful
movement on the board (required to edge a wide board) is gong to destabilize you.
If you’re crossing a lot of eddies, doing ferries, or eddy turns, a wide board makes it harder to lift the
outer edge so it doesn’t catch, and you quickly begin to appreciate the control and forgiveness that
comes from paddling a narrower one.
11
s
t
a
n d
u
p
p
a d
d
l
e
m
a
g
u
k