aisteb1973
Shaping neckline( left side of the front piece)
Work 30 rows from the beginning of the marked armhole row or in total 114 rows from(*), counting in the center of the front piece and keeping in mind counting the bust darts. In the next RS bind off center 22 stitches, knit to the end. Turn. Continueing on Increase rows for armhole shaping, work on the Left side of the front( right shoulder), shaping neckline. * Purl to the last 2 stitches, purl them together. Turn. Bind off 3 stitches, knit to the end of the row.* Repeat between * one more time. * Purl to the last 2 stitches, purl them together. Turn. Bind off 2 stitches, knit to the end of the row.* Repeat between * one more time. Purl to the last 2 stitches, purl them together. In the next RS row perform further neck shaping decreases as follows: * selvage stitch, knit 2, k2tog, knit to the end *. Repeat decreases every RS row 8 more times. Purl one row.
Shaping right shoulder using short rows( left side of the front piece)
In the next row knit to the last 5 stitches, wrap next stitch and turn, purl to the end. * In the next RS row knit to the 6 stitches before wrapped stitch, wrap next stitch and turn, purl to the end.* Repeat between * two more times. Knit alignment row on the RS, working over the wrapped stitches( see“ Stitch patterns”). Purl one more row. Do not bind off, leave stitches on the needle.
Shaping neckline( right side of the front piece)
Continue working on armhole shaping, as above, work on the right side of the front separately( left shoulder), shaping neckline. In the WS row * bind off 3 stitches, purl to the end. Turn, knit to the last 2 stitches, knit them together.* Repeat between * one more time. In the WS row * bind off 2 stitches, purl to the end. Turn, knit to the last 2 stitches, knit them together.* Repeat between * one more time. Turn, purl 2 stitches, purl to the end. In the next RS row perform further neck shaping decreases as follows: * knit to the last 5 stitches, ssk, knit 3.* Repeat decreases every RS row 8 more times. Purl one row on WS.
Shaping left shoulder using short rows( right side of the front piece)
Knit one row( RS), in the next WS row purl to the last 5 stitches, wrap next stitch, turn, knit to the end. * In the next WS row purl to the 6 stitches to the wrapped stitch, wrap the next stitch, turn, knit to the end.* Repeat between * two more times. Purl alignment row, working on all wrapped stitches( see stitch patterns section). Do not bind off, leave stitches on the needle. Leave long tail for three needles shoulder joining and back neck bind off later.
Summary of improved fitting
1. Back armhole is longer then front armhole by 4 rows. 2. Shoulder line slope is higher on the back by 2 rows. Finished back neck is lifted by 6 rows or 2 cm. 3. Height of horizontal bust dart is 8 rows or 2.5 cm
Sleeves( both alike)
Using 3.25 mm needle and color B cast on 62( 66, 70) stitches, using Italian cast on for 2x2 rib, starting and ending with 2 knit stitches on the RS row. Work on 2x2 rib for 17 rows, ending with a RS row. Purl one row. Join color A and change to the needles 3.75 mm. Work in the set up pattern, changing colors every 14 rows, transferring and weaving non-working and working colors on WS immediately after the selvage stitch. Work 7 rows with color A, ending with a RS row. In the next WS row perform Increase row for sleeve widening.
WS increase row: selvage stitch, purl 2, twisted yarn over, purl to the last 3 stitches, twisted yarn over in opposite direction, purl 3.
RS increase row: selvage stitch, knit 2, twisted yarn over, knit to the last 3 stitches, twisted yarn over in opposite direction, knit 3.
Repeat Increase rows for sleeve widening every 7 row 5 more times, alternating increases in RS and WS. In total increased 12 stitches, 74( 78, 82) stitches now on the needle. Work 3 more rows, ending with a WS row.
All images, text, and illustrations © Aistė Butkevičienė, 2016 @ aisteb1973 8