BILLIONS LuxuRY MAGAzINE - FASHION u
The years was 1932 , and Europe was in the midst of the Great Depression . Gabrielle Chanel , having become famous in the 1920s for her forward-thinking designs , was approached by the Union of Diamond Merchants to publicise their jewels during this economic slump . With these borrowed diamonds , Coco Chanel created her first and only High Jewellery collection — Bijoux de Diamants .
THE ICoNs of 1932 ’
The radical designs , which Gabrielle Chanel chose to exhibit in her private townhouse at 29 Faubourg Saint-Honoré , were comprised of five timeless themes , chosen to represent Coco Chanel ’ s lucky number : fringe , ribbon , feathers , the sun and stars — a mysterious constellation to mirror the mosaics on the floor of the orphanage at Aubazine , where Gabrielle Chanel spent her youth .
The jewels were displayed on eerily lifelike wax figures , no doubt inspired by her surrealist friends , with dazzling diamonds reflected against a backdrop of mirrors . True to the ingenious nature of Gabrielle Chanel , the more elaborate pieces were transformable — jewels of an emancipated woman , where nothing should impede her freedom .
As one would expect the exhibition was a monumental success , naturally enraging the jewelers of Place Vendôme who deemed Gabrielle Chanel as a mere couturière . While the collection was dismantled and the diamonds returned in haste , the designs revolutionized the jewelry of the time and cemented codes for the House of CHANEL which remain an inspiration to this day .
To celebrate this momunmental achievement CHANEL have unveiled a a stunning new collection featuring 81 pieces , of which 15 are transformable . The collection ’ s signature piece is the Allure Celeste necklace , which combines roundcut diamonds , an oval 55.55-carat sapphire of a deep and intense blue 8.05-carat pear-cut diamond . The halos on the transformable piece detach to become brooches , and the central row of diamonds becomes a bracelet , transforming the necklace into a short version and paying homage to Chanel ’ s original pioneering creations .
In addition to the exceptional Allure Céleste necklace the “ 1932 ” collection also includes 15 additional pieces in a dazzling array of coloured gemstones , including sapphires , yellow diamonds , opals , rubies , spinels and tanzanites
42 Billions Luxury Magazine