Sport Climbing Basics - VDiff Climbing Sport Climbing Basics - VDiff Climbing | Page 12
Technique Part 4: Rock Steepness
Slab Climbing
Climbing slabs (rock which is less than
vertical) requires less strength and more
balance than steeper angles of rock.
Your body should remain in the same
upright position as when you’re walking.
With gravity forcing the weight onto your
shoes, you have more friction on the rock.
Essentially, you will hold onto features for
balance while pushing up with your legs.
Friction slabs are generally devoid of any
positive features to crimp or edge on. To
climb a friction slab, you must rely on the
ssssss
surface contact beneath your palms and
feet.
Small steps are generally more efficient.
High steps tend to disrupt the delicate
balance needed to stop you from sliding
off.
On sustained slab climbs, where most of
your weight is on your feet, it’s common to
get ‘calf pump’ or ‘disco leg’. Make use of
any good footholds by standing with your
heel on the hold and your leg straight, so
that your center of gravity is over your heel.
Climb: Patrick Deacon on The Marmolada, Italy. Photographer: James Rushforth (see more here)