COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
Meanwhile , Jaguar HP-8 COS SGI is a non-ionic polymer with a high natural index of 0.87 . It is used as a texturiser and emulsion stabiliser , with additional benefits such as hair and skin conditioning , and is compatible with dilute-alcohol solutions containing up to 30 % ethanol and with electrolytes and stability over a wide pH range . Both are products of the Sustainable Guar Initiative ( SGI ), through which Solvay has worked with L ’ Oréal , Henkel , NGOs and local farmers to produce guar beans sustainably and at scale within the Bikaner desert district of Rajasthan , India . In Paris , the company announced that P & G Beauty had joined the SGI , which will add 5,250 more farmers to it and bring the total to around 11,000 . It had also just announced an unspecified expansion of guar production capacity in France . Since the show , Solvay has followed the trend towards biosurfactants with the launch of Mirasoft SL L60 and A60 , two readily biodegradable , 100 % biobased glycolipids from rapeseed oil and sugar . They are said to have low environmental and carbon footprints and to be suitable for a broad range of applications in shampoos , conditioners , shower gels , face washes and creams . Ashland has a similar initiative in guar in Rajasthan in the Sriganganagar district under its Responsible Solvers programme . This was initiated in partnership with the SM Sehgal Foundation in 2021 and
PermuPur Start won the Innovation Award for Lubrizol currently covers 250 farms from ten villages . Guar-based polysaccharides are the basis for the firm ’ s newly launched Styleze ES-Dura , a “ hair care ecostyler ”. Also new from Ashland were Caressense , a phytofermented extract from fresh , organic jasmine flowers sustainably grown in France ; Sensiva Go , a multifunctional with antimicrobial properties that is of 100 % natural origin and readily biodegradable ; and the Natrathix biocellulose-derived biodegradable rheology modifier . Ashland describes Natrathix a “ nature-derived , readily biodegradable thickener with suspension capabilities that maintains emulsion stability of skin and sun care formulations while delivering a desirable skin feel ”. It is also non-GMO , vegan suitable , electrolyte- and minerals-tolerant , effective across a wide pH range ( 4-8 ), cold-processable , and does not require neutralisation . It is marketed as an alternative to carbomers .
Winning awards
Natrithix won Ashland Bronze in the In-Cosmetics Functional Ingredient Award , behind CFF ’ s Sensocel materials derived from a variety of natural fibres ( Silver ) and PermuPur Start , a naturally derived polymeric emulsifier from Lubrizol Life Science - Beauty ( LLS Beauty ), which won Gold . PermuPur Start is a naturally derived polymeric emulsifier with a Renewable
Carbon Index of 0.96 , according to ISO 16128 and is readily biodegradable . This is claimed to offer excellent stabilisation capabilities at low ( 0.5-1.0 wt %) and up to 50 % oil content , thus limiting the need for co-emulsifiers while also “ offering a fresh and quick break sensory ”. LLS Beauty also launched Telophi , a biotech ingredient which is based on an extract from a Bacillus sp . isolated in the Florida Keys . This is said to protect telocyte and proliferating epidermal stem cells from psychological stress to help preserve the skin ’ s organisation . Applications are expected in daily facial skincare products . Finally , LLS Beauty revealed a global collaboration project with Brazilian firm Suzano , the world ’ s largest eucalyptus pulp and paper producer . This , it said , will “ co-develop naturalbased ingredients using renewable materials to the beauty , personal and home care markets ”. Gold in the Active Ingredient Award went to IFF – Lucas Meyer Cosmetics for Wastar Pink Berry , a botanical extract left over after the extraction of fragrance compounds from pink berries sustainably sourced from Madagascar , which is rich in bioflavonoids for soothing irritated scalps . This , the judges said “ perfectly answers the upcycling trend as it combines sustainable sourcing in Madagascar and a strong efficacy while limiting its manufacturing impact on the environment ”. DSM Nutritional Products Europe took Silver in this category for its Vitamin B12 cryst , while Gattefossé took Bronze for its ‘ new guardian of DNA ’, Solastemis . Meanwhile , Nafigate scooped Gold in the Green Ingredient Award for its Biopolymer Hydal PHA , an upcycled polyhydroxybutyrate based on green chemistry and zerowaste manufacturing . The company describes it as a functional ingredient that is biocompatible , non-toxic and fully biodegradable . Mibelle Biochemistry took Silver in this category for MelanoGray , an
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