COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE kits playing on particular themes . Dowsil 979 for instance , featured in the Powder Wow shampoo samples in powder form that Levecq said had generated a lot of customer interest . Another kit , called Seek Together , showcased formulations that address the lack of products for textured hair .
Delivering actives
Evonik ’ s press conference highlighted its continuing transformation towards natural and climate-friendly products . This has been partly based on the acquisitions of plant extracts producer Botanica and cosmetic delivery systems specialist Infinitec Activos in 2021 , following those of InnoHealth and Wilshire Technologies in 2020 and others in previous years . “ Active ingredients are the stars of the world of formulation but delivery systems are the co-stars ,” commented Joan Gonzalez , global head of marketing . They offer solutions to specific technical problems and Evonik believes that it has the largest and most advanced portfolio of delivery systems in the industry . The direction Evonik is following in personal care also reflects a wider corporate adoption of sustainability as a guiding business principle . The Nutrition & Care division , in which the Care Solutions business line sits , aims to increase its share of ‘ system solutions ’ with high growth prospects from 20 % today to more than 50 % by 2030 . This , said Yann d ’ Hervé , head of Care Solutions , can only be achieved through “ sustainability and performance ” applied in partnership with others . Evonik , like Dow and many other smaller firms , has recently invested into biosurfactants , announcing the construction of a commercial-scale plant for biobased , biodegradable rhamnolipids for personal care applications at its site
Solvay ’ s Sustainable Guar Initiative in India received a further boost in Slovakia . Other highlights at In- Cosmetics included :
• Tegosoft LO MB , an ester emollient for skin care applications that is 100 % derived from renewable , vegetable sources and produced via biocatalysis , offering the same sensory benefits as mineral oil ( which Sven Klare described as “ a relic of the past ”) but with a 30 % lower carbon footprint
• Four new ceramides and sphingolipids , including Rhesome CeraBoost , which is based on a combination of a natural , biotechderived delivery system with active ingredients and is said to capable of boosting the skin ’ s own ceramide synthesis and replenishing skin lipids from within
• A broad portfolio of products that require less or no water in formulation for use in solid care products such as dry shampoo and lipstick , and in special powders that consumers can mix with water via a refill concept
Keep the water out
Clariant was also addressing the waterless and solid format trends , among others , with GlucoTain GEM . This pure , concentrated glucamide is sulfate-free and based on nonfood competing sunflower oil and sugar syrup , which are both sourced in Europe to ensure proximity to the production site . GlucoTain GEM is a salt-free non-ionic surfactant that is
Dow showcased some of its new formulations in sample kits
aimed at concentrated rinse-off and conditioning applications . Clariant also used the Formulation Lab on the show floor to showcase the material ’ s ability to “ impart incredible foam to skin and hair products that are easy to dilute , achieving a creamy whipped-like consistency which is easy to spread , and also quick and easy to rinse off ". Other new launches from Clariant within the Beauty Wizard concept included Galactinol Advanced , which is based on the protective sugars that ‘ resurrection plants ’ produce to protect themselves against harsh natural conditions . The compounds are obtained from common agricultural by-products via biocatalysis , avoiding any need to harvest wild plants . Galactinol Advanced is claimed to offers formulators a unique solution for boosting skin defence systems and strengthening skin resilience in the context of diverse care serums and creams . It activates antioxidant mechanisms and helps repair DNA damage ; protein quality and functionality are optimised , and hydration is improved through enhanced hyaluronic acid ( HA ) production . Finally , Clariant launched Prunisen , a natural active based on an extract of Prunella vulgaris , a traditional medicinal plant commonly
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