Beyond natural
Companies rooted in chemicals are speaking the language of personal care and acting on it too . We report from In-Cosmetics Global 2022
The days when chemical companies active in the personal care sector simply produced materials are long over . Now , they not only speak the same language of environment , sustainability , wellness , diversity and inclusion as the small producers of natural products and the customers they share , they are fully integrated into natural raw materials . Many , indeed , are involved in on-theground initiatives to source these in sustainable ways that also benefit local communities . All of this and much more was in evidence at In-Cosmetics Global 2022 , which returned in-person in Paris in April . There were plenty of product launches at the event itself , with the key themes including solid , powder and waterless formats , upcycling from waste and by-products , and the already well-established trends towards natural origins and biotech manufacturing processes .
Delivering on promises
Dow showcased its new Ecollaboration Concepts Collection , which it said focuses on the three key pillars of natural beauty : ecology , economic development and the eco-conscious mindset . It was created , the firm said , to “ bring to life best-in-class examples of how innovative formulations help satisfy the global search for more sustainable cosmetic ingredients ”. “ When we last exhibited at the show in 2019 , we wanted to be and promised to be more sustainable ,” said Marie-Mélanie Levecq , the company ’ s EMEAI marketing communications specialist . “ What we are doing here is to deliver on that promise .”
Organised tour of key stands at In-Cosmetics Global
Dow launched six new products for skin and hair care , of which five are biodegradable and the other siliconebased with low cyclics content . Four were part of the Ecollaboration Concepts Collection . They comprised :
• MaizeCare Clarity Polymer , a 100 % natural , corn-based , biodegradable ingredient that is compatible with carbomer and designed for the formulation of crystal-clear hair styling formulations with low to high hair fixation and consistent curl retention
• Dowsil 979 , a low cyclics-content silicone emulsion for conditioners , leave-in and shampoo formats . It claims lower ecotoxicity than formulations containing quaternarybased surfactants , while also offering the performance benefits of an amino silicone emulsion , like reduced friction , enhanced dry or wet combing and restored hydrophobicity , as well as colour protection and reduced hair breakage
• EcoSmooth Rice Husk Powder , a cosmetic white silica powder upcycled from non-GMO rice husk , a by-
product of food manufacture , which is claimed to combine a unique sensorial experience and optical benefits like blurring imperfections and mattifying the skin , due to its higher sebum absorption
• EcoSense SL-60 HL and SL-60 HA , two sophorolipid biosurfactants made by biofermentation process with a near-zero carbon footprint , which are aimed at mild cleansing products in shampoos , face and body washes , and leave-on products
• EcoSmooth Universal Fluid 1100 , a cosmetic carrier fluid containing 100 % renewable carbon sourced as a by-product from wood and sugar cane production , with a polarity profile that gives it broad compatibility Dow has since formed a partnership with EcoSynthetix “ to bring innovative bio-based , biodegradable and lowcarbon solutions to the personal care industry ”. The MaizeCare polymers are at the heart of it . Like many other companies at In-Cosmetics , Dow showcased its new products in the form of sample
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