COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
• The Plant Milks Vegan Collection based on organic oat , almond and coconut milks that are sustainably sourced via an upcycling approach , while also offering moisturising and soothing Symrise also introduced the ‘ micronutrient shot ’ SymFerment , which was developed with Swedish firm Probi , a major player in food probiotics . This is based on upcycling the broth left over from the biofermentation of specific Lactobacillus strains used in dietary supplements . It provides moisturising and smoothing benefits in face and body care products by supporting filaggrin production . According to Marielle Le Maire , global head of the Actives business unit , ex vivo and in vitro testing has shown Synferment to lead to a significant improvement in hydration and skin smoothness , and a reduction in fine wrinkles . Fellow fragrance giant Givaudan Active Beauty claimed to have reinvented HA with the launch of Cristalhyal e-Perfection , a vectorised complex of bentonite clay and high molecular weight ( HMW ) HA made by white biotech means . This can penetrate deeper into the skin ’ s epidermal layers via electrical attraction , while still offering the long-lasting hydration associated with HMW HA . Continuing the upcycling theme , Givaudan launched Patchoul ’ Up , which is made via green fractionation from distilled patchouli leaves after their use as a raw material in fragrance , using sub-critical water . This is also as part of the company ’ s Sourcing4Good programme , under which it works with smallholders on the Indonesian island of Sulawesi to develop a sustainable patchouli business .
Cristalhyal ePerfection is based on bentonite clay and hyaluronic acid
Patchoul ’ Up was incorporated as the active ingredient into solid bars . It is claimed to rebalance sebum production , eliminate dry flakes and normalise the scalp microbiome . Finally , Givaudan introduced Neoporyl , an active ingredient created by biocatalysis that is claimed to reduce the size of enlarged pores by targeting the biological root causes of parakeratosis , an alteration of the epidermal structure , and dermis fragility , within one week .
Formulating for success
As ever , the major distributors were out in force at In-Cosmetics . They were showcasing not just the raw materials they distribute for their principals but the concepts they have developed in their own right through the broad grounding in formulation and marketing that comes from working with such a broad range of partners . IMCD , for example , unveiled six “ market-ready prototypes ” in its new NeoTech Beauty collection . These , said Stephane Lacoutiere , director of marketing and communications , were all designed based on the three “ ingredient pillars ” of :
• Bio-Tech for skin balance
• X-Tech , meaning the extraction of pure and natural actives ; and
• Smart-Tech , meaning the creation of ingredients that address such formulation challenges as cold processing Solid Youth Serum , for instance , addresses the ‘ waterless ’ trend by turning an anti-ageing milky serum for face care into a solid format . Among the ingredients used in it is Gransense , Grant Industries ’ 100 % biobased silicone-mimicking elastomer , which is made via biofermentation . Similarly , Hydra SunPearls is a sun care formulation with a SPF of 25 . It is based on ‘ pearls ’ that can be crushed in the hand to make a formulation with 99 % natural origin materials . Key ingredients include an optimised zinc oxide dispersion and a modified polyglycerol ester . The postbiotic active was obtained by the biofermentation of purple sweet potato , riceberry and purple tea . •
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