Speciality Chemicals Magazine SEP / OCT 2024 | Page 59

COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE listed above cause adverse reactions in the skin . Chemical irritation and hair removal techniques used in the axillary area can repeatedly damage the skin . In the short term this irritation can cause dryness , erythema and general discomfort . In the long term postinflammatory hyperpigmentation can occur , causing darkening of the skin . 9 In response to this , a growing number of consumers are looking for products to lighten and brighten the area of the armpit while looking for deodorising solutions that will not exacerbate the condition .
Balancing the microbiome
Most of the strategies in use today have a deodorising efficacy by either disrupting the skin ' s natural process of perspiration or the microbiome . Research into the skin ' s microbiota has shown that having the right balance of microbes can be beneficial for the skin . For example , Staphylococcus epidermis has been found to be beneficial to the skin ' s barrier function , reducing water loss . 10
This should not be so surprising , since biotech usage of bacteria and yeasts as supercharged chemical factories is producing beneficial molecules for many industries . It seems that Mother Nature had them creating beneficial secondary metabolites on our skin all along .
Recent research has shown that disruptions of the skin microbiome can results in skin disease . 11 The balance of the microbiome plays a significant role in dictating whether sweat will be broken down to malodorous molecules . When analysing the microbiome of people with and without malodour , there were significant differences in the microbial communities between the two groups .
Staphylococcus hominis , found in a higher ratio in those suffering from malodour , creates highly odourous thioalcohols on the skin via the metabolism of sweat constituents . 12 In another study on the use of antiperspirants , it was found that applied product disrupted the microbiome , favouring the proliferation of an odourproducing bacteria over the nonodourous microbes . 13
With this new knowledge , the skin microbiome has become the frontier of body deodorising research and innovation . Studies have been conducted transferring the mix of microbes from one person ’ s axillary to another , resulting in altered body odour . 14 This has confirmed that microbe management can be the key to not just healthy skin but a nonodourous future .
The next generation of deodorants are emerging with materials that can manipulate the microbiome to prevent malodour and boost skin health . Deodorant brand Fussy offers a deodorant with a probiotic ( Lactobacillus ) teamed with sodium bicarbonate and magnesium hydroxide . Deolya , a plant-derived active developed by Silab , acts on Staphylococcus hominis , the bacterial species responsible for unpleasant odours , and has been proven to prevent malodour while also preventing irritation and strengthening the skin barrier .
Skinification is the future
We have seen skinification of products in the haircare sector , with the inclusion of skincare actives and claims . This shift seems to have crossed into deodorants with a merging of deodorant and body care products . Several all-over body deodorants have been launched in the last year . With the development of newer actives that can offer both deodorisation with skin care benefits and none of the irritation , this market sector is expected to grow .
Dove ’ s vitamin care deodorant sticks feature Vitamin B3 ( INCI : Niacinamide ), a well-recognised skincare ingredient with many benefits that include antibacterial properties . The company has since launched its Whole Body Deo collection in cream and stick formats . The stick offers additional antichafing with deodorising , while the cream can be used all over , including intimate areas . In the formulation niacinamide is teamed with zinc neodecanoate and cornstarch .
Lume whole body deodorant cream is aluminium- , bicarbonate of sodaand talc-free , and is clinically tested to offer 72-hour odour protection . These deodorant products all feature a blend of mandelic acid and Maranta Arundinacea root powder .
With a global emphasis on reducing energy usage , CO 2 reduction and water saving , we may start to feel the pinch on our hygiene habits , reducing our time in the shower . Both antiperspirants and deodorant products will become more necessary than they were in the time of tin baths in the front room ! This need will drive innovation , and perhaps future microbiome mastery may enable us to control our bacteria to create aromas to please the senses . ●
References : 1 : J . Sivulka , Waseda University Tokyo Abstract Conference on Historical Analysis & Research in Marketing ( CHARM ) 2007 2 : Mia de Graaf , Daily Mail Online , June 2019 3 : E Fredrich , H . Barzantny , I . Brune & A . Tauch , Trends in Microbiology , 2013 , 21 ( 6 ) 305-312 , ISSN 0966-842X 4 : https :// thingtesting . com / brands / superdrip / about 5 : WO2018087147A1 , 2018-05-17 6 : US8318806B2 , 2008-10-03 7 : EP0775229A1
8 : www . green-people . com . au : The science behind deodorants & antiperspirants 9 : R . L . Evans , S . Bates , R . E . Marriott & D . S . Arnold . Int . J . Cosmet Sci . October 2020 , 42 ( 5 ), 436-443 : doi : 10.1111 / ics . 12648 10 : Y . Zheng , R . L . Hunt , A . E . Villaruz , E . L . Fisher , R . Liu , Q . Liu , G . Y . C . Cheung , M . Li & M . Otto , Cell Host Microbe February 2022 1 : S1931-3128 ( 22 ) 00040-3 : doi : 10.1016 / j . chom . 2022.01.004 11 : X-E . Zhang , P . Zheng , S . -Z . Ye , X . Ma , E . Liu , Y . B . Pang , Q . -Y . He , Y . -X . Zhang , W . -Q . Li ,
J . -H . Zeng & J . Guo . J . Inflamm . Res . 2024 , 17 1057 – 1082 12 : M . Rudden , R . Herman , M . Rose et al . Sci Rep 2020 , 10 , 12500 : https :// doi . org / 10.1038 / s41598-020-68860-z 13 : C . Callewaert , P . Hutapea , T . Van de Wiele et al . Arch . Dermatol . Res . 2014 , 306 , 701 – 710 : https :// doi . org / 10.1007 / s00403- 014-1487-1 14 : C . Callewaert , J . Lambert & T . Van de Wiele , Exp . Dermatol . 2017 , 26 : 388 – 39 : https :// doi . org / 10.1111 / exd . 13259
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Ella-Louise Ceraulo
INNOVATION CHEMIST
CORNELIUS GROUP PLC elc @ cornelius . co . uk www . cornelius . co . uk
SEP / OCT 2024 SPECCHEMONLINE . COM
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