Ella-Louise Ceraulo of Cornelius Group shares some insights on the trends and evolution of the deodorant market
COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
Fragrant future : The evolution of the deodorant industry
Ella-Louise Ceraulo of Cornelius Group shares some insights on the trends and evolution of the deodorant market
The battle of body odour management has a long history . For hundreds of years a mineral crystal called Tawas , more commonly known as aluminium potassium sulphate , has been used in the East for its astringent and deodorising properties . In the US , the first zinc oxide deodorant cream was launched in 1888 but it was not until Edna Murphy launched a ‘ toilet water ’ called Odorono in the early 1900s that deodorants and antiperspirants became successfully commercialised .
Murphy had used a formula developed by her father based on aluminium salts that was originally used to stop surgeons ' hands sweating . She reinvented and marketed the product to women . Where previous products had failed , Odorono succeeded with a marketing campaign that put the spotlight on body odour , making it a social faux pas . 1
Figure 1 – Common deodorant chemistries
Antiperspirant
Aluminium chloride
OH OH
HO -Al-Al- OH
Cl
OH Aluminium chlorohydrate
Odour neutralising
OH
Zinc ricinoleate
HO
HO ff
;;
0
�-Cyclode >< tri�
0 ''"""'"'''
111110H
OH
OH
HO
HO
Developments continued and in 1941 a product called Stopette was patented . Based on aluminium chloride this product was buffered in order to minimise the irritation caused by the strong salts . A packaging innovation allowed for the product to have a spray application .
Further developments led to the creation of creams , pastes , rollons , sticks , powders and aerosols offering longer-term protection from wetness and odour . Figure 1 shows some of the commonly used deodorant chemistries .
Changing habits
A poll on deodorant habits in the UK in 2019 showed that antiperspirants and deodorants were falling out of favour with the younger generation . 84 % of over 45s used them and only 40 % in the 18-24 age group . 2
Many of those questioned no longer used products due to safety concerns . The traditional aluminium
J3-CD
HO
0
H o
2
0
Zn 2 •
,,,, 0 HO '' v
OH
HO ,. 0 ':\.,,,,....
� HO
HO ,,,,,, � % ., "' OH ,,
,,,, ....
0
�
"''"'"'" 0 OH
= OH
-
0
0
/
Bactericide / bacteriostatic
0
0-
0 0 - , 11
13+ K + , �1 0 - 0
Potassium alum
0
Ho ----f Na + o-
Sodium bicarbonate salts , though regarded as safe by the scientific community , have been tarnished with reports of links to breast cancer . Those with sensitive skin can find formulations irritating , which reinforces the belief that they are having a harmful effect .
There has been a shift in deodorants to more ‘ natural ’ formulations , particularly claiming ‘ aluminium-free ’. There has also been movement in society , with many wanting to respect their natural body and biological processes , whether that is body inclusivity , body hair or the natural process of sweating .
Our bodies perspire to regulate body temperature . There are three main types of sweat gland situated in the human dermis . Eccrine sweat glands cover most of the body and open directly onto the skin producing a watery sweat for thermoregulation , generally the products of this gland do not result in odour .
Apocrine glands , meanwhile , open into hair follicles and are situated in areas with most hair , the scalp , armpits and groin . Unlike eccrine sweat it is more viscous , containing carbohydrate and protein as well as sodium chloride . Though sweat is odourless when produced , certain bacteria can metabolise the apocrine sweat glands , creating malodorous breakdown products . 3
Aluminium salts reduce perspiration by entering the channel of the sweat gland . Once inside , they form a colloidal gel with moisture to prevent further sweating . Some have concerns
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