COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
Figure 4 – Example formulation - sweet almond , shea and soy refine and protect cream
Phase Trade Name INCI % Function A
Preserved DI Water
Aqua , DMDM Hydantoin , Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamte
56.1 Solvent A Pro-Coll-One + Hydrolyzed Soyben Fibre 2 Active A
Filmexel
Kappaphycus alvarezii extract , Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract ,
0.5 Active
A Glycerin Glycerin 2.5 Humectant A Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol 10 Humectant A Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.2 Stabiliser A Magnesium Sulfate Magnesium Sulfate 0.2 Stabiliser B Cor-Sil 201-5 Dimethicone 14.25 Emollient B Sweet Almond Oil Refined Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil 3.25 Emollient
B
B
Shea Butter Organic Pressed and Refined TrueShea
Bentone 38V 10 % Pregel in Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Butyrospermum Parkii ( Shea ) Butter
Dicaprylyl Carbonate , Disteardimonium Hectorite , Propylene Carbonate
2 Emollient
3 Rheology modifier
B Cor-Sil Avance PEG-7 Dimethicone Ether 6 Emulsifier
‣ users complaining of feeling that they have been ‘ rolled in rubber cement ’. The unique structure of Cor-Sil Avance means that these elastomers are not required to elicit an elegant silky skin feel and cushion . Removing them also streamlines the formulation , reducing cost , inventory management and freeing up the external phase for other beneficial ingredients . The end look and texture of Cor- Sil Avance-based formulations can be manipulated simply by altering the ratio of internal phase , while minimising the need to add additional raw materials . Higher water phases result in more viscous products . Plant oils comprise a combination of fatty acids and vitamins , advantageous in skin and hair care products where they protect the skin . Silicone chemistry is not always compatible with plant oils , often resulting in a choice between formulations with natural ingredients and the potential sensory enhancement from using silicones . A recent study of Cor-Sil Avance ’ s emulsifying capabilities has found that
References :
1 : Degradation of polydimethylsiloxane fluids in the environment : A review ( https :// pubmed . ncbi . nih . gov / 10070732 )
2 : Gov . uk ( www . gov . uk / government / publications / greenhouse-gas-reporting-conversion-factors-2020 ) it can handle 30-50 % replacement of dimethicone or cyclomethicone in formulations with plant oils or naturally derived esters . This ability widens the sensorial space of Cor-Sil Avance emulsions . Plant oils can offer additional benefits to the skin and create a more nurturing skin feel . Organic shea butter was found to give a rich texture for drier skins ( Figure 3 ). All emulsions glide on the skin effortlessly with no tackiness in dry off observed . Figure 4 shows the results of a sensorial trial , carried out with a blind panel of 19 volunteers . Three emulsions were provided for assessment , all with the same emollient blend , altering only the emulsification system . In all , 84 % preferred the Cor-Sil Avance emulsion over the traditional Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethiconeemulsified product . Similar results were achieved compared to the hot processed O-Si / W product , but Cor- Sil Avance was felt to be silkier and lighter on the skin , with the additional benefit of lower-energy production .
3 : Search Engine Watch ( www . searchenginewatch . com / 2020 / 11 / 20 / how-social-media-influence-71-consumerbuying-decisions /
4 : ICIS Insight ( www . icis . com / explore / resources / news / 2020 / 07 / 17 / 10531480 / carbon-footprint-labelling-agrowing-trend-among-consumer-goods-companies )
Conclusion
Cor-Sil Avance meets the needs to simplify formulation and production , resulting in energy savings and reduced carbon footprint . Using fewer ingredients results in less product stewardship , expense and transportation , again reducing environmental impact . Faster production time saves expense on energy while liberating capacity at the factory . At the lab level the increased speed of production can boost efficiency and innovation . The UK Competition & Markets Authority has been reviewing environmental claims and will provide industry guidance this year to ensure that any claims made can be backed up . The time and energy savings of using Cor-Sil Avance are measurable in-house , leading to strong energysaving claims . It is compatible with raw materials commonly used in cosmetics , including plant oils . Emulsions can be created in various formats from moisturisers and sunscreens to foundations . •
Ella Ceraulo
CORNELIUS GROUP PLC k + 44 1279 714349 J elc @ cornelius . co . uk j www . cornelius . co . uk
36 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981