SURFACTANTS
Foam & salt curve
Typically when polymeric ingredients are added into a surfactant , there is a significant detrimental effect on either foam generation or foam decay . However , tests of 15 % SLES / CAPB / Structure M3 systems at 0.3 % and 5 % M3 over a ten-spin cycle inside a foam tester showed no significant difference in either over 12 minutes . Structure M3 thus does not have a negative impact on foam build or stability .
Adding salt or other electrolytes to a surfactant system can have a profound effect on micelle formation and the resulting viscosity , Belluscio continued . The effects can include increased formation of micelles by lowering the critical micelle concentration ( CMC ), because the salt ions shield the charge on the micelle molecules , reducing the repulsion between them and encouraging them to form more micelles .
Therefore , Belluscio said , “ there is a delicate balance in the amount of salt added to a surfactant system . The right amount can increase the viscosity to the desired level but oversalting can reduce it .”
Nouryon ’ s formulation guidance gives a recommended use level of 0.5-5.0 % active for Structure M3 , which is supplied as a dry powder . It should be fully dispersed in the free water in the formulation prior to adding the surfactant ( s ). It should be added under a high rate of mixing but no high
50 %
40 %
30 %
20 %
10 %
0 %
21 %
20 %
4 % 4 % 4 %
shear is required . Up to 1-2 % sodium chloride might be needed to achieve mildness in SLES / CAPB and AOS / CAPB formulations .
Foaming & cleaning potential
Nouryon created two formulations for a non-aerosol pump cleanser system containing SLES / CAPB surfactant , one with 5 % Structure M3 and the other without it . A mineral based sunscreen was applied to the arms of volunteers , allowed to dry , one pump of each formulation was placed on the arm and rubbed in ten times and rinsed for 20 seconds in warm water . They performed cleansing “ quite similarly ”, showing that Structure M3 has no impact on the cleansing potential of the system .
To evaluate Structure M3 in taurates , Nouryon developed a make-up removing toner . Structure M3 was incorporated in one formula at 1.5 % with 3 % Cetiol 767 triglyceride INCI : PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides and 0.7 % Euxyl PE 9010 ( INCI : ( Phenoxyethanol ( and ) Ethylhexylglycerin ) in deionised water . The other had 6 % Cetiol 767 and no Structure M3 .
Lipstick was applied to the top of volunteers ’ arms . One gram of product was applied to the arm , rubbed in and wiped off with a swab . The formulation with Structure M3 increased the makeup removing efficiency of the toner , showing that it can in some cases improve formulation , Belluscio said .
21 %
23 %
12 % 12 % 12 % 14 % 15 %
6 %
27 %
2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 Shower products Shampoo Facial cleansers
Figure 2 – Global new product launches with claim ‘ Suitable for sensitive skin ’, 2019-2023
Note : Sources - Mintel GNPD , US Facial Care 2023 , Patent Insights : Soap , Bath & Shower for Sensitive Skin 2022
6 %
Formulations & outlook
Nouryon has created various formulations for Structure M 3
, for skin cleansing , hair cleansing and baby care . Others include a clear exfoliating face wash , which uses 1 % of its Amaze XT * polymer to help suspend the all-natural exfoliating beads and provide rheology . Inside an 8 % active surfactant system , 0.5 % Structure
M 3 helps improve the mildness of this SLES-CAPB formulation , which also features ElfaMoist AC * humectant for high levels of moisturisation . Another was a sulfate-free conditioning shampoo , in which 5.5 % Structure M3 was part of a 15 % AOS-CAPB surfactant system . This also included Nouryon ’ s Celquat SC-230M conditioning polymer *, the SolAmaze Natural solution that acts as a silicone conditioner replacement , Elfacos GT 282S * rheology modifier and Hydrovance * moisturising agent . Structure M3 improved the mildness of the system by 20 % compared to a similar formulation without Structure M3 .
This is all part of Nouryon ’ s drive to address the growing trend towards skin cleansing products that are labelled ‘ Suitable for sensitive skin ’. These have accounted for a rapidly growing section of global product launches in all cleansing categories . It is also Nouryon ’ s wider strategy of focusing on “ delivering innovative and sustainable solutions that answer customers ’ needs ”, Belluscio noted .
The company has a Carbon Disclosure Project score of A- and an EcoVadis Gold Rating . 32 % of its 2023 revenue came from ‘ eco-premium solutions ’, defined as ‘ products that offer significant sustainability benefits over mainstream alternatives in the market while providing the same or better functionality ’. ●
Natalie Moore
DIRECTOR , BUSINESS AND AMERICAS COMMUNICATIONS
NOURYON k + 1 484 319 8307 J natalie . moore @ nouryon . com j www . nouryon . com
NOV / DEC 2024 SPECCHEMONLINE . COM
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