SURFACTANTS
them the perfect choice for personal care products designed for sensitive skin . These innovative ingredients have been specifically formulated to provide gentle and effective cleansing , while delivering a range of benefits to the skin and hair .
According to in vitro mildness assays , such as the red blood cell test , both glycolipids have been shown to be significantly gentler to the skin than conventional surfactants ( Figure 4 ). This makes them an excellent choice for improving the mildness of final formulations and providing comprehensive care for end-consumers .
Rheance One has also shown promising results in reducing skin sebum for blemished skin without negative side effects . In a single-blind , randomised , controlled in vivo study , 20 volunteers washed their faces twice daily , half with a 1 % or 5 % Rheance One active formulation and the other with water as a placebo . Skin sebum measurements were taken three hours after application .
Over four weeks , 1 % Rheance One achieved a 13 % reduction in skin sebum while 5 % Rheance One achieved a 25 % reduction . Both are statistically significant These findings suggest that it can be an effective ingredient in cosmetic products designed to decrease skin sebum . These promising results may also have the potential for improving scalp conditions in scalp cleansing applications .
Figure 3 - Mascara removal comparison test v . a market benchmark
Note : Vitro-Skin mascara removal test , SV 405 , SV 406 , 3 % a . m ., two runs , pH 6 . Benchmark was high-performing micellar water
Outlook
The personal care industry has a unique opportunity to meet the increasing demand for sustainable products . Evonik is producing highquality glycolipids from responsibly sourced ingredients . By using the power of glycolipids , manufacturers can create products that not only deliver exceptional results , but also contribute to a more sustainable future for our planet and the wellbeing of consumers . ●
* Also contributing to this article were Nadine Truchan , Uta Kortemeier and Stefan Julian Liebig , also of Evonik
** RHEANCE and SOPHANCE are registered trade marks of Evonik
J j
Joseph Shieh
GLOBAL MARKETING COSMETIC SOLUTIONS
EVONIK joseph . shieh @ evonik . com www . personal-care . evonik . com
Figure 4- Rheance One & Sophance LA-A in the red blood cell test
Note : L / D ratio = Lysis-todenaturation ratio
48 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981