Joseph Shieh and Peter Schwab of Evonik discuss the technical features and functional benefits of two glycolipids used in sustainable personal care applications *
The sustainable journey of glycolipids in personal care
Joseph Shieh and Peter Schwab of Evonik discuss the technical features and functional benefits of two glycolipids used in sustainable personal care applications *
Figure 1 – Manufacturing process for glycolipids
As consumers become more environmentally and healthconscious , the personal care industry is adapting to meet their demands for more sustainable and gentle ingredients . One such ingredient is biosurfactants , which are derived from natural sources through fermentation .
Glycolipids are a particularly favourable type of biosurfactant due to their superior performance , natural claims and excellent sustainability profile . By using glycolipids in their products , personal care brands can offer consumers a unique selling point in terms of sustainability while also providing effective foaming and cleansing properties .
Evonik has pioneered the industrialscale manufacturing of high-quality glycolipid biosurfactants . These are made from responsibly sourced raw materials that are produced via fermentation processes using microorganisms , ultimately reducing their environmental impact ( Figure 1 ).
Glycolipids : The sustainable revolution
Surfactants play a crucial role in personal care products , providing essential properties such as cleansing , foaming , emulsifying , solubilising and conditioning . However , conventional surfactants have a poor eco profile , raising concerns about sustainable sourcing and environmental impact . To address these issues , glycolipid biosurfactants like rhamnolipids and sophorolipids are increasingly being used in personal care products .
Rhamnolipids are produced naturally by Pseudomonas aeruginosa , a human pathogen . Evonik , by contrast , uses a nonpathogenic microorganism and only sugar as a raw material to produce them in a carbon-optimised fermentation process .
These rhamnolipids have exceptional foaming properties and are gentle on the skin , making them ideal for use in shampoos and shower gels . They are also readily biodegradable and more compatible with aquatic organisms than conventional surfactants .
Sophorolipids , by contrast , are produced by yeasts and occur naturally in materials like bumblebee honey . They are known for their mildness to the eyes , skin and mucus membranes , and are also coldprocessable , making them easy to add to formulations in order to tailor foaming and cleansing properties . Recent research and process optimisation have led to greater availability of these substances .
The use of glycolipids in personal care products provides a unique opportunity for brands to differentiate themselves from competitors by incorporating innovative and sustainable ingredients . This can add value to their products and appeal to consumers who prioritise eco-friendly and innovative options ( Figure 2 ).
Glycolipids are readily biodegradable and have significantly
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