COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
red showed an increase in the mean volume of lipid droplets in the cytoplasm of HS-stimulated sebocytes compared to the untreated control . The treatment of HS-stimulated Caucasian sebocytes with Epispot at 0.017 % decreased cell proliferation by 37 % ( SD ± 6 %; p < 0.001 ) and significantly decreased the amount of total lipids by 21 % ( SD ± 6 %; p < 0.01 ) compared to the HS-stimulated condition . ( Figure 1a )
Regarding Asian sebocytes , treatment with Epispot at 0.017 % significantly reduced the proliferation of sebocyte by 27 % ( SD ± 0 %, p < 0.01 ) and the synthesis of lipids by -21 % ( SD ± 4 %, p < 0.01 , Figure 1b )
The treatment of the HS-stimulated black American sebocytes with Epispot at 0.034 % had also a significant effect on the size of the lipid droplets produced : It reduced the mean lipid droplet volume by 31 % to 2.29 µ m3 (± 0.07 ; p < 0.001 ) ( Figure 1c ).
Irrespective of the ethnic origin of the sebocytes , HS-stimulation induced an increase of lipid production . Treatment with the new product reduced this excessive lipid production and may contribute to preventing overproduction of sebum in oily skin .
In vivo tests
In a double-blind , randomised study conducted on 34 female volunteers of Asian descent , aged 20-45 , a split-face , placebo-controlled method was used with self-applied treatments twice daily over 56 days . Participants had a lipidic index of ≥120 . Measurements were taken to assess various parameters , including sebum secretion levels on the forehead .
The participants applied the new product at a concentration of 0.2 %, and the data collected was analysed to compare the effects before treatment ( D0 ) and after 56 days ( D56 ). The evaluation of the sebaceous secretion was performed with Sebutape , which is ideally suited for assessing the effect of local treatments , regulating the physiology of the sebaceous glands .
Quantification analysis revealed notable findings in the number and surface area of sebum spots after 56 days of treatment . Specifically , there was a significant 26 % reduction in the number of sebum spots compared to the baseline and a 19 % reduction compared to the placebo group ( p < 0.001 ).
Evaluation of sebum area per spot showed a significant reduction of 42 % after 56 days compared to the baseline and a 37 % reduction compared to the placebo group ( p < 0.001 ). These results demonstrated the efficacy of Epispot in reducing the number of active sebaceous glands and the amount of sebum secreted by each gland . This reduction contributed to an improvement in skin shine , as shown in Figure 2 .
Aligning efficacy & sustainability
Oily skin affects consumers worldwide , regardless of their gender , age , or ethnicity , and impacts the lipidic balance due to excessive sebum production by the sebaceous glands .
Figure 2 - Skin shine before & after treatment with Epispot
Epispot has proven to be an ideal solution for oily skin in a variety of ethnic backgrounds .
The new ingredient has demonstrated its efficacy in significantly reducing lipid synthesis from sebocytes from multiethnic origin . In vivo , it has been shown to significantly reduce the rate of sebum secretion , with a mattifying effect .
The active enhances BASF ’ s sustainability efforts in terms of responsible sourcing . Epilobium angustifolium is collected manually by skilled harvesters in France and adheres to the rigorous guidelines set by the AFC , an association for French plant pickers that promotes respectful harvesting techniques to ensure sustainable management of wild plants .
Organic certified harvesting is carried out in six different regions , and species preservation is ensured through a careful rotation of the collection plot . The active thus meets the growing consumer demand for sustainable skin care that does not compromise on performance . ●
* - Also contributing to this article were Oussama El-Baraka , Chiung Yueh Hsu-Misman , Dominique Gauché , Cécile Kalem and Aurélie Courtois
** - Epispot is a registered trade mark of BASF SE
References 1 : S . Nouveau-Richard et al ., Skin Res Technol . 13 ( 1 ), 43-8 2 : J . -Y . Hong et al ., J . Cosmet . Dermatol ., 19 ( 5 ), 1016-1020 3 : D . C . Endly et al ., J . Clin . Aesthet . Dermatol . 2017 10 ( 8 ), 49-55 |
4 : T . H . Sakuma et al ., Skin Pharmacol . Physiol ., 25 ( 5 ), 227-35 5 : C . C . Zouboulis et al ., Rev . Endocr . Metab . Disord . 2016 17 ( 3 ), 319-334 6 : M . Schaller et al ., Dermatology , 35 , 580- 587 ; G . Plewig , Acne & Rosacea , 2000 , 58-67 7 : E . Jacobsen et al ., J . Invest . Dermatol . 1985 , 85,483 – 485 |
8 : Pappas et al ., Dermato-Endocrinology 2016 , 5:2 , 319-324 9 : A . Adamczak et al ., Herba Polonica 2019 65 ( 3 ), 51-63 10 : S . Denizen , The Flora of Bombed Areas ( An Allegorical Key ) in M . Gandy & S . Jasper ( eds .) The Botanical City . Berlin , Jovis Verlag , 2020 , 38 – 45 |
Nicolas Berthelemy
R & D INNOVATION PROJECT LEADER
BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTIONS FRANCE SAS
J nicolas . berthelemy @ basf . com j www . personal-care . basf . com /
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40 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981