Speciality Chemicals Magazine MAR / APR 2022 | Page 47

COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE

For each of the products tested , a 5 x 5 cm wool swatch was washed under a standard wash procedure and the L * a * b a * ( green-red axis ) colour value was measured using a Hunter Labs MiniScan 4000S . Increased a * values denote increased red intensity , thereby indicating greater amount of red dye deposition and therefore increased cationic polymer deposition . As Figure 3 shows , when PQ-10 was added to the formulation , we started to see increased substantivity . When we did the control with 2 % PolySuga Quat S1210P , this showed a bigger effect than would have been expected simply by adding the two figures together at nearly 10.5 . An even bigger combined effect was seen when ColaMoist 200 was added to the control with PQ-10 . To assess whether these effects are really of benefit to the hair , we looked at the comb force reduction . This is the ideal predictor of product performance , because the change in combing force on human hair swatches is measured objectively .

Lightly bleached brown hair swatches were washed with various test articles and the force required to comb the hair was measured using a DiaStron Fibra . One combing apparatus . Two endpoints were measured : peak combing force and total work to comb the hair . Reductions in both values indicates improved conditioning and maximised deposition of cationic polymer . Figure 4 shows the results , comparing the base with different combinations of CCI ’ s products . Most notably , the increased substantivity when adding 0.5 % PQ-10 and 2 % PolySuga Quat TM8610-P are considerably greater than would come from the simple addition of either of them alone . There was an even greater effect with the addition of ColaMoist 200 . This had little effect at all on hair conditioning alone , but when it was used in combination of PQ-10 , there was a significant improvement . Overall , the turbidity results definitely indicate increased coacervation and broader ranges over which the complex forms ; the rubine dye deposition tests demonstrate substantivity ; and the comb tests demonstrated greater ease in combing , showing benefits from the increased deposition of the coacervate on the hair surface . The performance is very much dependent on the concentration and the product mix , however .

Conclusions

Optimising conditioning from shampoos is often a daunting challenge for formulators . For quats in particular , sometimes more is less , especially when aesthetics are an important consideration . Through careful formula optimisation , formulators can accomplish more with less . Among CCI ’ s many additives that have been investigated for promoting deposition of cationic quats , two standout products have surfaced : ColaMoist 200 , which has the best efficacy ; and Poly SugaQuat TM8610P , which also works very well and may support ‘ clean ’ formula claims better , because it is made from naturally derived materials . •

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Figure 4 - Coacervation effect by DiaStron combing force reduction ( peak load ( gf ))

MAR / APR 2022 SPECCHEMONLINE . COM

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