COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
A
B
C
Figure 2 - Turbidity results for dilutions of shampoo formulae : Poly SugaQuat TM8610P ( a ), PolySuga Quat TM8610-P ( b ), ColaMoist 200 ( c )
• Characteristics of polymer / surfactant complexes ( size , solubility , rigidity )
Coarcevation products
Colonial Chemical ( CCI ) makes various products that can help formulators with coacervate formation , starting with the PolySuga range of quats ( INCI : Polyquaternium 77 , 78 , 80 , 81 ). These are a range of naturally derived polyquaterniums that are PEG- and preservative-free , and do not contain any toxic residual monomers . PolySuga quats are excellent conditioners that prevent fly-away in hair . They are compatible with anionic surfactants , can be used in all kinds of two-in-one cleansers and are also mild enough for use in leave-on products . They have lower irritation when compared to many traditional quats , making them alternative options to cetrimonium chloride and stearalkonium chloride . As an example of their performance benefits , one of CCI ’ s quats , Poly SugaQuat S1210P , was tested at 6 % in a simple formulation with 2.5 % GMS SE / AS and 5 % cetearyl alcohol in water . The formulation demonstrated excellent conditioning of lightly bleached brown hair , with a 96 % reduction in both peak and average wet combing forces , with results comparable to stearalkonium chloride . Another CCI product is ColaMoist 200 ( INCI : Hydroxypropyl Bis- Hydroxyethyldimonium Chloride ). This small cationic molecule is a highly substantive humectant moisturiser . It is non-occlusive , non-tacky and nonsensitising , with a broad pH range , temperature stability and very low irritation potential . Uses are found in rinse-off applications , such as facial cleansers and daily wear or intensive care moisturisers . It is also mild enough for use in baby care products . The company carried out a doubleblind , placebo-controlled lower leg controlled application test ( LCAT ). In this , 26 healthy volunteers with dry skin applied a sulfate-free body wash , the same body wash containing ‣
45