1.5 % AHE-enriched facial cleanser exhibited a strong ( about 98 %) efficacy in eliminating carbon microparticle deposits from the skin . There was a significant improvement in the elimination index of the treated group compared to the control group ( p < 0.006 ). Thus , it is shown that AHE exerts a highly efficient cleansing and antipollution effect . The study subjected reported no clinical signs of intolerance or feeling of discomfort whatsoever .
Soothing effect & anti-acne
Cutaneous irritation is a commonly known and widespread skin condition . AHE decreased the duration of lactic acid-induced stinging in 80-100 % of subjects . It also induced significant decreases in stinging intensity of 48 %, 89 % and 100 % after 30 seconds , five and 15 minutes after application , respectively , as reported by 86-100 % of subjects . AHE additionally reduced the cutaneous reactivity score by approximately 67 %, in 97 % of subjects after 28 days of use . These results suggest that AHE is an anti-irritant with both immediate and preventive soothing effects .
There was no difference in the decrease of stinging intensity reported after six and nine minutes upon administration of 2.5 % AHE , while 90 % of subjects observed a decrease of 69 % in the duration of stinging . Furthermore , a 48 %
improvement on average in cutaneous reactivity was observed in 68 % of subjects after 28 days . The activation of innate immunity via the expression of cytokines by keratinocytes , resulting in the hyperkeratinisation of the pilosebaceous unit , plays an essential role in acne formation . 13 After 28 days of twice-daily application , 1.5 % AHE induced a statistically significant decrease in the number of microcysts , papules and pustules . Moreover , a significant decrease in the total number of lesions ( global noninflammatory and inflammatory ) was observed ( Figure 5 ). AHE also induced a decrease in porphyrin expression , which characterises a reduction of susceptibility to acne lesions , though results were not statistically significant . AHE was very well tolerated and about 73 % and 82 %
Figure 5 – Anti-acne efficacy of 1.5 % AHE application for 28 days
of subjects respectively stated that the product prevents and reduces inflammatory acne if used regularly .
Conclusion
We found AHE to be implicated in the promotion of wound healing factors E-cadherin and paxillin , the suppression of cytokines involved in inflammation in vitro , and the suppression of oxidative stress and preventing ageing factors . It was also shown to enhance skin barrier integrity by inducing the expression of two different cytokeratines . AHE balances the skin microbiome and maintains microbiome diversity and vitality . It displays anti-irritant , anti-acne , anti-pollutant and pro-ageing properties when tested in vivo . AHE was also very well tolerated , demonstrating its beneficial characteristics for future use in both rinse-off and leave-on application forms . •
REFERENCES
1 : C . Gomes , M . Carretero , M . Pozo , F . Maraver , P . Cantista , F . Armijo et al ., Appl Clay Sci . May 2013 , 1 ( 75 – 76 ), 28 – 38
2 : V . Kumar , J . -E . Bouameur , J Bär , R . H . Rice , H . -T . Hornig-Do , D . R . Roop et al ., J . Cell . Biol , Dec . 211 ( 5 ), 1057 – 75 ( https :// pubmed . ncbi . nlm . nih . gov / 26644517 .
3 : M . Borg , S . Brincat , G . Camilleri , P . Schembri-Wismayer , M . Brincat , J . Calleja- Agius , Climacteric , Oct . 2013,16 ( 5 ), 514 – 21
4 : I . Liguori , G . Russo , F . Curcio , G . Bulli , L . Aran , D . Della-Morte et al ., Clin Interv Ageing Apr . 2018 , 26 ( 13 ) 757 – 72 ( https :// pubmed . ncbi . nlm . nih . gov / 29731617 )
5 : P . Montuschi , P . J Barnes & L . J . Roberts , FASEB J . Off . Publ . Fed . Am . Soc . Exp . Biol . Dec . 2004 , 18 ( 15 ), 1791 – 800
6 : J . H . Shim , Int . J . Mol . Sci ., Nov 2019 20 ( 22 ), 5555 ( https :// pubmed . ncbi . nlm . nih . gov / 31703303
7 : H . Peiris , D . Dubach , C . F . Jessup , P . Unterweger , R . Raghupathi , H . Muyderman et al ., Oxid . Med . Cell . Longev . 9 June 2014 , 520316 ( https :// pubmed . ncbi . nlm . nih . gov / 25009690 )
8 : S . Zhang & E . Duan , Cell Transplant , May 2018 , 27 ( 5 ), 729 – 38 ( https :// pubmed . ncbi . nlm . nih . gov / 29692196 )
9 : C . Lohwasser , D . Neureiter , B . Weigle , T . Kirchner & D . Schuppan , J . Invest . Dermatol ., Feb 2006 , 126 ( 2 ), 291 – 9
10 : C . -Y . Shen , C . -H . Lu , C . -H . Wu , K . -J . Li , Y . - M . Kuo , S . -C . Hsieh & C . -L . Yu , Molecules , 27 Nov . 2020 , 25 ( 23 ), 5591 ( https :// www . ncbi . nlm . nih . gov / pmc / articles / PMC7729569 )
11 : L . Li , R . Hartley . B . Reiss , Y . Sun , J . Pu , D . Wu et al ., Cell . Mol . Life Sci . 2012 , 69 ( 16 ), 2779 – 89 ( https :// doi . org / 10.1007 / s00018- 012-0951-3 )
Stefan Fellner
CEO & FOUNDER
PREMIUM ORGANICS k + 43 676 9770610 J stefan . fellner @ premium-organic . com j www . premium-organic . com
12 : J . -W . Shin , S . -H . Kwon , J . -Y . Choi , J . -I . Na , C . -H . Nuh , H . -R Choi et al ., Int . J . Mol . Sci ., 20 Apr . 2019
13 : B . Dréno , J . Eur . Acad . Dermatol . Venereol ., Sep . 2017 , 31 Suppl 5 , 8 – 12
35