Stefan Fellner of Premium Organics outlines the multiple efficacies of Alpin Heilmoor extract
Historically , peloids ( muds and
healing earths ) have been indicated for the treatment of numerous chronic and dermatological conditions . 1 Their benefits were first hypothesised in medieval times and mud therapy is still widely practised today . Cosmetic peloids have a positive impact on the maintenance of healthy and proaged skin . Our objective was to investigate the dermocosmetic properties of Alpin Heilmoor extract ( AHE ), a micronised dark powder which concentrates the healing properties of medicinal peloid in a pure and potent form . This was sustainably extracted from a natural ( organic ) peloid on an Austrian Heilmoor (‘ healing moor ’) 500 metres above sea level .
Materials & methods
We conducted a series of in vitro studies with HaCaT cells and reconstructed human epidermis ( RHE ) on the effects of AHE on skin barrier enhancement , wound healing factors and anti-inflammatory efficacy . In all these experiments , AHE was dissolved in PBS at 100 mg / ml . To determine the expression and / or activation of certain molecular factors on AHE treatment of cells and in vitro skin models , we performed Western blot assays and meso-scale discovery ( MSD ) multiplexing analyses using the U-Plex platform . We also determined AHE ’ s role in preventing ageing and suppressing oxidative stress by looking at gene expression of advanced glycation end product ( AGE ) receptors and measuring markers for oxidative damage in normal human fibroblasts ( NHDFs ) and macrophage ( RAW ) cells . In addition , we carried out in vivo clinical studies to ascertain the proageing ( elasticity , hydration , radiance under the eye ), soothing and cleansing efficacy of cosmetic grades of AHE , i . e . anti-irritant , anti-acne , cleansing / anti-pollutant , pro-ageing and skin tolerability properties . Finally , AHE was also investigated for its skin acceptability and future use .
Skin barrier integrity & anti-inflammatory
The primary goal of cosmetic products is that they must not have a damaging effect on the skin ’ s microbiome . This means that the microorganisms must remain vital , and the natural biodiversity and the protective function
( a ) ( b ) ( c )
Figure 1 – Maintaining vitality ( a & b ) & biodiversity ( c ) of the microbiome with & without 1 % AHE