Speciality Chemicals Magazine JAN / FEB 2023 | Page 50

SUSTAINABILITY

Case study : An alternative to beeswax

Beeswax has long been used in beauty and personal care products from face creams , body lotions and sunscreens to cosmetics such as lipstick , eye shadow and mascara . This ingredient is valued for its natural origin and ability to provide emulsion , moisture , texture and other attributes .
However , a combination of market trends – from the broadening appeal of the vegan ethos to the cost and purity fluctuations inherent in beeswax – has companies and brands seeking alternatives that are seen as safer and healthier for the bees , consumers and the environment . Formulators needed a viable vegan wax solution , one that could stand up to sustainability claims without sacrificing efficacy or versatility .
A large wax supplier was bringing to market a blend of three plant-based waxes - sunflower seed wax , rice bran wax and sumac wax . It needed assistance in the lab with performance testing and analysis to confirm essential attributes for personal care formulators . At the heart of the technical challenge were the nuanced attributes of different plant waxes , making blending and testing both time-consuming and daunting for many formulators .
Our Essen solution centre analysed and tested blend characteristics , such as melting point , congeal point , acid values and ratios , producing data to support and confirm key performance attributes . They identified an alternative option to beeswax and created Natural Vegan Beeswax Substitute ( PHC9677 ).
The ingredient was chosen for its all-around performance and versatility in both emulsions and water-free formulations . It can replace beeswax across beauty and personal care applications , with proven performance in pH , viscosity , sensory , stability , crystallisation and other physical attributes .
Beyond performance and processing quality , it delivers on sustainability claims because the blend is made from naturally sustainable and renewable sources , thanks to upcycled processes of the plant-based waxes . The ingredient is Ecocert- and COSMOS-certified , palm- and-GMO free and biodegradable . It also meets vegan , halal and kosher claims .
Backed by performance testing and data from our scientists and industry experts , Natural Vegan Beeswax Substitute can deliver on all these claims without sacrificing product quality in wideranging beauty and personal care applications . Easy to use and economically viable , it offers excellent skin conditioning , structure and firmness , as well as uniform and stable pigment distribution , making it a versatile choice across commercial beauty and personal care applications . ● clarity around the words ‘ sustainable ,’ ‘ green ’ and ‘ natural ,’ which often mean different things to different people . Greenwashing is common and it is often difficult to know if product claims made by one brand are the same as claims made by another .
To complicate matters , companies are at dramatically different stages of understanding and action . Some of our largest customers have clearly articulated their ESG goals , but many small- and medium-sized businesses are just starting the process . They know it is growing increasingly important , but they are still struggling to get products into their facilities on time and deliver on their promises .
To better align industry thinking about sustainability , we recently began piloting a standardised global framework for categorising and characterising the sustainable attributes of ingredients and products . We work closely with many supplier partners and customers to make sure each characteristic clearly defines sustainability at the product level and that this filter is valuable to customers .
Our product marketing managers are beginning to work with our principals to gather the supporting documentation for each sustainability characteristic : bio-based , carbon footprinted , a safer substitute , circular or recovered material , socially accredited and environmentally accredited .
We are confident that this will drive supplier innovation and will help customers better understand the sustainable attributes of each product . Ultimately , we aim to create a more transparent , consistent and simple marketplace that will make it easier for customers to find and purchase the products they need with the attributes they want . ●
Kelly Gilroy
VP OF SUSTAINABLE & NATURAL PRODUCTS
UNIVAR SOLUTIONS k + 1 877-509-5915 J getstarted @ univarsolutions . com j www . univarsolutions . com
50 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981