SOLUTIONS WITHIN REACH
Engineering enzymes to tackle textiles
Polyester is the most widely used clothing fibre in the world . But because it ’ s not a sustainable textile option , it ends up discarded in landfill or polluting the environment . It is made from polyethylene terephthalate ( PET ), one of the most common consumer plastics .
Having developed enzyme technology to reduce single-use plastics , including PET , to their chemical building blocks , researchers at the Centre for Enzyme Innovation ( CEI ) are now working on creating a similar process for polyester textiles . Their goal is to open the door to safe and efficient recycling . But it won ’ t be an easy process .
One reason why the European Environment Agency estimates these textiles account for 60 per cent of clothes that are worn is because consumers value their durability . What ’ s more , the addition of dyes and other chemical treatments to polyester makes it even harder for these tough oil-based materials to be ‘ digested ’ in a natural process .
Developing enzymes that can efficiently ‘ eat ’ polyester clothing , without energy-intensive pre-treatment , is a huge challenge . But it ’ s one Professor Andy Pickford , Director of the CEI , is determined to achieve . He explains :
“ We will test the compatibility of our engineered enzymes with additives , dyes and solvents to select those enzymes that are best suited to polyester textile deconstruction . Then we will apply these enzymes to appropriately pre-treated waste polyester textiles in laboratory-scale bioreactors , to evaluate the potential and limitations of scaling up the technology .”
Clothing has some of the lowest rates of recycling , while its production involves vast amounts of petroleum . Professor Pickford ’ s team aims to create an environmentally friendly circular economy for plastic-based clothing .
As a partner in the STEPP project of Revolution Plastics , AMAL Foundation has been impressed with the level of dedication and expertise exhibited by the expertise team . From the outset , it was clear that this was a highly impactful project in Syhlet with farreaching goals , and the STEPP team has consistently demonstrated a willingness to go above and beyond to achieve these goals . One of the things that have struck us the most about the project is the emphasis on collaboration and knowledge-sharing . The team has worked closely with partners from a wide range of backgrounds and disciplines and has been highly responsive to feedback and suggestions throughout the process . In addition to the impressive level of collaboration , the project has also been characterized by a high degree of professionalism and attention to detail . The STEPP team has been meticulous in its planning and execution and has consistently delivered high-quality results on time and on budget . Overall , we are extremely pleased with our experience as a partner in the STEPP project . Their expertise , professionalism , and commitment to excellence make them an ideal partner for any project that seeks to push the boundaries of knowledge and understanding in their field .
– Esrat Karim Director , AMAL Foundation , Bangladesh
Professor Pickford says this research “ will establish the feasibility of using enzymes to deconstruct the PET in waste textiles into a soup of simple building blocks for conversion back into new polyesters , thus reducing the need to produce virgin PET from fossil-fuel based chemicals .” To achieve this , the team is working with project partners Biomimicry Institute , who will provide expertise in natural solutions to sustainability challenges , and sports clothing business Endura , who will share their knowledge of fabric dyes and provide samples of end-of-life polyester textiles .
“ We want a system that uses plastic in the same way we use glass or tin cans – infinitely recycled ,” says Professor Pickford . “ The ultimate aim is to close the loop – however , this requires not only the technology but also the will to do so ."
In the CEI , and across the Revolution Plastics initiative , the will to drive change is in abundant supply .
REVOLUTION PLASTICS / 2023 43