Sleeves Magazine Men's Fashion Week Special Men's Fashion Week June 2016 | Page 133
if you will. Words and phrases such as
‘nocturnal’ and ‘pounding’ and ‘do as I
say’ and, in case you weren’t getting it,
‘sex’, conjured images of extreme
deviance, taboo, or at least furtive
naughtiness.
Instead, however, the new collection
revels in the tepid squalor and misery
of the modern anti-establishment
youth culture, and seems very much at
home to be fair. It’s remarkably unsexy; as well as the bottom-slogans,
there’s a mish-mash of oppressive,
heavy, metallic accessories (from
chains and keys to multi-level
chandeliers of earrings) and almost
monastic sleepwear, pulled together to
some extent by Zhou’s lovely narrow
primary-on-white striping which
features in the majority of looks. There
are camos and skinheads, dark,
malnourished eyes and fairly lashings
of glitter. It’s thin on cohesion, and long
on statement.
The strongest looks are those involving
fewest clothes. Simple, aggressive
leather trousers in striking shades of
scarlet and olive green and jet black
with low-top sneakers and bootlace
belts. Blue and white striped trunks
paired with a huge white PVC overcoat.
But some of the more complex
combinations work well too – Zhou’s
stripes are most at home in the
accenting scarves and handkerchiefs
which adorn several of the full-body
Photo: LCM
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