But the collection truly comes
together with the leathers.
Reportedly of horse and kangaroo,
they cover a variety of umber
shades giving further weight to the
post-civilisation hunter-gatherer
vibe, whilst giving the looks a
quality and sharpness deliberately
avoided in the coarse-looking
cottons and pre-stained canvas
layers. Lapels jut out aggressively
creating stark, strong panels to
present before you, like an animal
puffing itself up to look big. Many
of the looks fall to the knee, in a
‘found wrappings’ kind of anti-fit,
but the legs and feet are invariably
let free to move, for fight or flight
as the need may be.
At what point does
fashion design end and
costume design begin?
a barbecue. There are heavily
vented jackets and vests which
appear at times more gap than
garment. And the yellow. The
yellow is so bright and so
specific a shade it comes across
like the red coat in Schindler’s
List. A beacon against
everything else the collection
might represent. A defiance
born of necessity.
Photo: PR Boris Bidjan Saberi
Sleeves Magazine