Skin Health Magazine Issue #7 / Spring 2018 | Page 34

THE FUTURE OF VITAMIN A What’s new for everyone’s favourite anti-ager? I t seems we can’t get enough of Vitamin A. The ingredient is currently enjoying a resurgence in popularity, as new and ex- citing formulas packed with innovative tech- nology and modern derivatives hit the shelves this spring. One brand that is leading the way in Vitamin A advancement is Medik8, so who better to sit us down and chat all things Retinol than their Formulation and Development Di- rector, Daniel Isaacs? Grab a notepad and pen; you’re going to want to take notes. We all know that Vitamin A and its derivatives are some of the best youth-preserving skin care ingredients available, tackling everything from uneven tone to fine lines. But what’s the deal with all the different variations? “In order for Vitamin A to have an effect on our skin, it has to undergo a conversion process,” explains Daniel Isaacs. “This goes something like Reti- nol → Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid → Skin Benefits.” This means that whatever derivative of Vitamin A you use, the skin has to convert it into Retinoic Acid in order for it to work its magic. The weaker the derivative, the more steps it has to go through before the skin can convert it into something useful which, ulti- mately, means minimal results that take longer to become apparent. Decoding Your Derivatives So which derivatives work best? Medik8 are well-known for their impressive catalogue of Vitamin A formulas, offering something for everyone and every skin need. For new users, a clear step-up system that is easy to follow is a great way to track your Retinol progress, and a tolerable ingredient like All-Trans Retinol is a great place to start, according to Daniel, “Our Retinol range is a great introduction to those who are new to Vitamin A. The 1 TR, 3 TR, 6 TR and 10 TR all contain our pure, All- Trans Retinol and the number refers to the amount of Retinol in each product, for example, Retinol 1 TR contains 0.1%, Retinol 3 TR contains 0.3% and so on. An ideal Retinol product to start you on your Vitamin A journey is the Retinol 3 TR. It contains a medium strength Retinol, which is low enough to cause minimal irritation but high enough to make a significant improvement to your skin.” However, Retinol isn’t without its problems. The rate at which the ingredient penetrates the skin combined with its cell turnover-increasing abilities means irritation and redness are com- mon amongst Retinol users, but Medik8 have kept this in mind during the formulation of their serums. They have included time-release technology in all their Retinol products to es- sentially drip feed the ingredient into the skin slowly, over a longer period of time, to reduce the risk of irritation. Step Up! One of the most confusing things about Vita- min A is understanding how to find the perfect schedule for your skin. Some of the most com- mon