Skin Health Magazine Issue #7 / Spring 2018 | Page 34
THE FUTURE
OF VITAMIN A
What’s new for everyone’s favourite anti-ager?
I
t seems we can’t get enough of Vitamin
A. The ingredient is currently enjoying a
resurgence in popularity, as new and ex-
citing formulas packed with innovative tech-
nology and modern derivatives hit the shelves
this spring. One brand that is leading the way
in Vitamin A advancement is Medik8, so who
better to sit us down and chat all things Retinol
than their Formulation and Development Di-
rector, Daniel Isaacs? Grab a notepad and pen;
you’re going to want to take notes.
We all know that Vitamin A and its derivatives
are some of the best youth-preserving skin
care ingredients available, tackling everything
from uneven tone to fine lines. But what’s the
deal with all the different variations? “In order
for Vitamin A to have an effect on our skin, it
has to undergo a conversion process,” explains
Daniel Isaacs. “This goes something like Reti-
nol → Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid → Skin
Benefits.” This means that whatever derivative
of Vitamin A you use, the skin has to convert
it into Retinoic Acid in order for it to work its
magic. The weaker the derivative, the more
steps it has to go through before the skin can
convert it into something useful which, ulti-
mately, means minimal results that take longer
to become apparent.
Decoding Your Derivatives
So which derivatives work best? Medik8 are
well-known for their impressive catalogue of
Vitamin A formulas, offering something for
everyone and every skin need. For new users,
a clear step-up system that is easy to follow
is a great way to track your Retinol progress,
and a tolerable ingredient like All-Trans Retinol
is a great place to start, according to Daniel,
“Our Retinol range is a great introduction to
those who are new to Vitamin A. The 1 TR, 3
TR, 6 TR and 10 TR all contain our pure, All-
Trans Retinol and the number refers to the
amount of Retinol in each product, for example,
Retinol 1 TR contains 0.1%, Retinol 3 TR contains
0.3% and so on. An ideal Retinol product to
start you on your Vitamin A journey is the
Retinol 3 TR. It contains a medium strength
Retinol, which is low enough to cause minimal
irritation but high enough to make a significant
improvement to your skin.”
However, Retinol isn’t without its problems.
The rate at which the ingredient penetrates the
skin combined with its cell turnover-increasing
abilities means irritation and redness are com-
mon amongst Retinol users, but Medik8 have
kept this in mind during the formulation of
their serums. They have included time-release
technology in all their Retinol products to es-
sentially drip feed the ingredient into the skin
slowly, over a longer period of time, to reduce
the risk of irritation.
Step Up!
One of the most confusing things about Vita-
min A is understanding how to find the perfect
schedule for your skin. Some of the most com-
mon