should be of the same skin colour , as it was felt that this would positively enhance the treatment outcome . Knowing that a positive treatment outcome is dependent on practitioner experience and knowledge rather than the practitioner ’ s skin colour , is another reason why Black Skin Directory is so important ; it dispels these types of myths and opens up availability and accessibility to skin treatments for everyone .” Here , Dija sheds some light on the most common skin concerns affecting dark complexions and the most effective ways to treat them .
HYPERPIGMENTATION
Uneven darkening of the skin can be down to a number of factors , from hormones to holidays in the sun , but the condition isn ’ t as easy to treat as people think . “ Although hyperpigmentation is often a secondary outcome to a skin condition , for many people of colour it can end up being the greatest skin concern , over and above the actual cause of it ,” explains Dija . While hyperpigmentation caused by UV exposure is easy to prevent with the daily application of a sunscreen , it ’ s Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation or PIH which is the most difficult for people of colour to correct . “ Due to the genetics of black skin , PIH can be a lifelong occurrence ,” says Dija . “ However , a solid skin care regime will help to prevent it . Using Vitamin A and Alpha Hydroxy Acids will encourage cell turnover and serums that contain skin brighteners like Vitamin C can help to improve uneven skin tone . Professional skin treatments like chemical peels , laser , mesotherapy and micro-needling can all help to disperse hyperpigmentation successfully .”
DIJA ’ S PICK : NeoStrata Enlighten Serum “ This takes a multi-pronged approached to tackling hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase – a precursor in the production of melanin . It also actively fades discolouration with the help of NeoGlucosamine , Vitamin C and Liquorice .”
ACNE
Persistent breakouts and painful pimples are more common in darker skin tones , as overactive sebaceous glands can cause the pores to become blocked more frequently . But there are other reasons why dark skins battle blemishes , as Dija explains : “ Acne affects all ethnicities , but there are some contributing factors that can cause or exacerbate the condition in people of colour . For example , the use of hair pomades in hair styling that may contain petroleum jelly , mineral oil or waxes can lead to ‘ pomade acne ’, which consists predominantly of comedones along the hairline . Other occlusive skin products that feature heavily in the routines of people of colour , such as Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter , can also clog pores leading to breakouts .” To treat the condition , sufferers must stick to non-comedogenic products and exfoliate regularly , as acne scarring and the aforementioned PIH can be a troublesome after-effect of poor complexion management . Dija suggests using Retinol and AHAs , a good sunscreen during the day , and anti-bacterial products to keep the pores clear . Sufferers should also think about trying a chemical peel or LED Light Therapy alongside any at-home treatments .
DIJA ’ S PICK : bea Skincare Glyco Serum 15 % “ This AHA serum exfoliates under-performing old skin cells , unclogs pores and accelerates skin cell turnover .”
PSEUDOFOLLICULITIS
Also known as shaving bumps and barber ’ s itch , this happens when hair is cut or shaved too short , resulting in the hair shaft retracting back into the hair follicle . “ The condition mainly affects people with thick , curly Afro hair that , when cut , grows back into the skin causing painful inflammation and swelling of the hair follicle ,” says Dija . The best course of action is to switch to single-blade razors and to invest in a cleanser that contains AHAs . “ It is impor-
ISSUE # 06 | 2018 | SkinHealthMagazine . com 11