Ingredient Spotlight
GLYCOLIC ACID
W
e get it. Acids are intimidating,
especially when it comes to using
them on the skin. But once you
get to know them, you’ll see that they’re not
as scary as they first seem. The most popular
acid by far is Glycolic Acid, a natural deriv-
ative of sugar cane that has been used as part
of in-clinic peels since the 1980s.
Part of the AHA family (that’s Alpha
Hydroxy Acids for those of you who are
new to cosmeceuticals) Glycolic Acid works
by dissolving the bonds holding dead cells
onto the surface of the skin, to make them
easier for the skin to discard. What’s so great
about that, you may wonder? Well, to stay
healthy and youthful, your skin naturally
sheds cells constantly throughout the day to
make way for new cells that are being formed
deep down in the epidermis. In fact, over a
24 hour period, the skin sheds almost a
million cells! When this renewal process
slows down, dead and damaged cells start to
build up, causing the pores to become
blocked and making fine lines appear more
pronounced. This build up also hinders how
effectively your favourite skin care products
can penetrate the surface; meaning all those
expensive serums and creams can’t reach the
cells they need in order to make a difference.
By helping the skin to shed obsolete cells,
products that contain Glycolic Acid can
improve the skin in other ways too. Keeping
the pores clear of cell build-up means
pimples are less likely to swell up overnight
and, because Glycolic Acid lowers the pH
of the skin temporarily, acne-causing bacte-
ria struggles to survive, further reducing the
possibility of developing a nasty breakout.
Using Glycolic Acid regularly will also make
the skin’s natural cell removal processes much
more efficient, so the chance of a significant
amount of build-up happening in the future
is less likely.
But let’s get back to why acids have such a
mixed reputation. It’s all down to the strength
of the ingredient and how it makes the skin
feel. The Glycolic Acid molecule is one of
the smallest in the AHA family, so it pene-
trates the skin incredibly quickly. This,
coupled with its differing pH to the skin,
means it causes a mild reaction to take place
in the form of visible reddening and a sen-
sation that can be described as a mild tickle
at best, and a serious burn at worst. To avoid
anything that feels uncomfortable, opt for
products that contain a low concentration
of Glycolic Acid (we’re talking less than 4%)
and use them sparingly throughout the week.
If you have sensitive skin, use wash-off
products, such as cleansers and face masks,
instead of creams and toners to get your
Glycolic fix.
As Glycolic Acid renews the skin, it is im-
portant to protect this fresh layer of cells
against external damage, especially sunlight,
by making sure a sunscreen features prom-
inently in your everyday morning routine.
No exceptions.
ISSUE #05 | 2017 | SkinHealthMagazine.com 25