The Other Side of Acids
a potent skin-sloughing ingredient that has the
smallest molecular size of any AHA so that it
penetrates the surface of the skin quickly,
causing that well-referenced tingling sensation
on application. This happens due to the speed
at which this ingredient penetrates the skin
and its differing pH to that of the skin’s acid
mantle (the protective surface layer), which
essentially shocks the skin into a response.
When used in the appropriate dosage for your
skin type, Glycolic Acid keeps the skin looking
fresh and youthful but it can cause inflammation and itchy, irritated skin if used too often
or in too high a concentration, so start off
slow and work your way up
Next is Lactic Acid, a milder AHA that is
currently experiencing a bit of a moment in
the spotlight thanks to its impressive ability to
exfoliate and hydrate the skin. Not to be confused with the substance released within the
body during strenuous exercise, Lactic Acid
has been shown to be particularly effective for
sensitive skins and keratosis pilaris sufferers,
as it softens and removes keratin plugs trapped
within the pores.
One member of the AHA family that works
a little differently is Mandelic Acid, an oil-soluble active whose molecules are much larger
in size than its Glycolic and Lactic cousins so
that it penetrates the skin and, more importantly, the pores at a much slower rate so it
causes little to no irritation. It is particularly
effective for acne-prone skin, which is why it
is often paired with the next acid in our guide.
Beta-Hydroxy Acids or BHAs tend to be
oil-soluble so that they can penetrate the pores
easily and do the majority of their work
beneath the surface. Salicylic Acid is the most
popular member of this acid family and you
can probably remember it vividly from your
teenage years, as it is one of the best
spot-fighting ingredients out there. It is
derived from the same substance as aspirin
so it also helps to reduce inflammation and
soothe stressed skin, a big plus for acne-fighting products, but avoid it if you have an allergy
to this type of medication.
Finally, we turn our attention to Hyaluronic
Acid. The complete opposite to all other acids,
it possesses no exfoliating benefits but instead,
has the ability to hold 1000 times its own
weight in water which it then delivers deep
within the skin to relieve dry patches, quench
dehydration, plump fine lines and firm lacklustre areas. A natural carbohydrate, Hyaluronic Acid is naturally present in the body
(mainly in the joints and as lubrication around
the eyes) but after the age of 40, its level significantly drops off which is why the skin loses
most of its youthful bounce.
Working Them Into Your Routine
To get the best out of an acid, especially the
exfoliating AHAs and BHAs, you need to use
it regularly but sparingly. Start off with a low
concentration to give the skin time to acquaint
itself with this new ingredient and avoid going
straight in with a hard-core, single-acid formula
as most acids work well alongside others in the
same formulation. Use them a couple of times
a week, ideally as a cleanser, toner or overnight
treatment, to start seeing results within the
first month. Hyaluronic Acid is very easy to
use, just apply it daily to keep the skin hydrated and smooth.
When using any of the exfoliating acids, make
sure that you apply a high factor sunscreen
during the day to protect the new, fresh layer
of skin that has been exposed to the world.
This will prevent sun damage and irritation,
so never use one without the other.
ISSUE #02 | WINTER 2016 | SkinHealthMagazine.com 27