Skin Health Magazine Issue #12 / Summer-Autumn 2019 | Page 30

SUN PROTECTION AND SKIN OF COLOUR By Dija Ayodele T his summer, the UK aired its first ever advert for sunscreen that directly tar- geted those with deeper skin tones. One of the women behind this campaign, aesthetician and founder of the Black Skin Directory, Dija Ayodele, hopes this is the beginning of an impor- tant shift in the way SPFs are marketed. In our exclusive article, she debunks the biggest myths surrounding black skin and the sun, and reveals the shocking consequences that poor representa- tion in the marketing of sunscreen can have for people of colour. Despite skin colour, all ethnicities have the same number of melanocyte cells that produce the pigment melanin. These melanocytes transfer melanin granules into the melanosomes to be transferred to other cells within the skin, thereby giving depth of skin colour. In skin of colour, the melanosomes are larger and more evenly distributed throughout the epidermis compared to Caucasian skin which allows darker skins to filter almost double the amount of UVB rays than Caucasian skin can absorb, giving darker skin tones a natural sun protection factor (SPF) of approximately 13. It is this intrinsic factor that makes darker skin tones less prone to sun-induced skin cancers than Caucasian skin. When skin suffers damage and trauma such as cuts or wounds, inflammation follows and the melanocytes react by increasing the production of melanin which floods the area affected. Excessive unprotected sun exposure also causes trauma to the skin, in the form of burning, and this causes the skin cells to activate their defence mechanism and produce more melanin. This is why tanning isn’t a sign of health, but a sign that skin is defending itself from UV rays and damage. Can skin of colour develop skin cancer? Just as Caucasian skin tones can develop skin cancers like Melanoma, so too can dark skin tones. Major research studies have concluded that darker skin tones can develop sun-related skin cancer. Cancer can also develop in non-sun exposed sites such as the soles of the feet and nail bed; the jury is out on whether there is some degree of UV influence on these skin cancers due to the ability of UV to down regulate the immune system. In fact, the skin cancer mor- tality rate for the skin of colour population is 1.5 times higher than Caucasians because darker skin tone patients often present their symptoms to health professionals much later, when sadly the cancer is at a more advanced stage. Although melanomas are rare among the non- white populations, they are often diagnosed at an advanced stage, which leads to a poor prog- nosis. It is crucial to improve melanoma awareness and promote prevention by reducing exposure to modifiable risk factors such as sun exposure as well as improving early recognition. Obscure brand marketing and health messaging Historically, it is also the case that sunscreen brands have traditionally marketed to the white demographic, leaving skin of colour out of the narrative. Naturally, the assumption is then made that sunscreen is for white skin, not brown or black. Again, fueling a dangerous miscon- ception. It’s very alarming when you consider ISSUE #12 | 2019 | SkinHealthMagazine.com 30