INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT
POLY-HYDROXY ACIDS
I
t seems we simply can’t get enough of acids
in our skin care products. Just when you’ve
got your head around AHAs and BHAs,
along comes another type of acid to shake up
your skin care routine. Described as second
generation AHAs, Polyhydroxy Acids are the
gentler, more tolerable cousin to the intense
cell-shedding Alpha Hydroxy Acid family we
all know and love.
Time for some science. PHAs have a larger
molecular structure than AHAs which, in
simple terms, means two key things: they can’t
penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and they
don’t cause that satisfying yet slightly uncom-
fortable stinging sensation during application.
Instead, PHAs do the majority of their work at
the surface, breaking down and dissolving the
substance bonding dead cells onto the epidermis
so that your skin can shed them more effectively.
This not only improves tone and texture, but
creates a clearer pathway to the deeper layers
for any other active formulas in your routine.
Think how much quicker your skin will respond
to that new serum now it doesn’t have to contend
with a dense layer of dead cells.
Their gentle exfoliating properties have made
PHAs a popular choice for those with sensitive
and easily inflamed complexions who still want
to combat dullness and bumps, but these acids
are more than just a one trick pony. They also
possess humectant properties, meaning they
keep the skin hydrated, and are able to minimise
inflammation. Hold on, we’re not done. PHAs
have also been shown to support and strengthen
skin barrier function, which is why they are
often included in topical eczema treatments and
skin-smoothing creams.
If you have always shied away from combining
acids and Retinol in your routine, it’s time
to rethink things. PHAs can be combined
with other acids (yes, both AHAs and BHAs)
and even Retinol, often in the same formula,
as the two ingredients tend to work with
instead of against each other for the most
dramatic skin-perfecting results. When shop-
ping for PHA-based products, check the
ingredients list for Gluconolactone,
Lactobionic Acid and Maltobionic Acid, three
of the most popular PHAs in skin care. Even
though PHAs sit on the milder side of the
exfoliation scale, they are still helping to
resurface the skin, so it’s important to use a
sunscreen in any routine where a PHA, AHA
or BHA is utilised. That’s one thing they do
have in common.
ISSUE #12 | 2019 | SkinHealthMagazine.com 25