Skin Health Magazine Issue #11 / Spring 2019 | Page 14
FEELING
FRUITY?
Exfoliating enzymes, the fruity alternative to acids and scrubs
By Shari Shallard
B
efore we talk fruit, let’s cover the
basics. If it’s not already in there,
an exfoliator should be part of your
existing skin care regime — this is how you
remove dead and dull skin to reveal that
fresher, smoother, brighter complexion
hiding beneath. Exfoliating also addresses
uneven pigmentation, blocked pores, and
wrinkles, plus it prepares skin to better
absorb other products.
Physical exfoliators work manually, buffing away
rough patches and any unevenness in much the
same way sandpaper lightly smoothes out the
delicate surface of a fine piece of woodwork.
(Your face is, uh, woodwork in this analogy.)
These might be actual scrubs, facial brushes or
grainy creams.
Chemical exfoliants contain acids and enzymes
that dissolve the bonds between the skin cells
so dead cells rinse away easily. Alpha hydroxy
acids (AHAs), Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs),
and Poly hydroxy acids (PHAs), are among
the most commonly used chemical exfoliants.
However, if you’ve read your chemical exfoli-
ating product’s packaging lately, you might
be wondering why part of the ingredient list
resembles a smoothie recipe.
Making Things Happen
Inside our bodies, enzymes are making things
happen; they’re called biological catalysts
because they enable countless chemical reactions
to occur fast enough to keep us functioning.
When fruit-derived enzymes are added to our
skin care products, they’re also making things
happen. Typically called on for their exfoliating
and anti-inflammatory capabilities, enzymes
break down the keratin protein that holds
dead skin cells in place. Pomegranate, papaya,
pumpkin and pineapple, for example, are used
in skin care for a range of benefits, including
antioxidant-richness that nourishes the skin and
fights damage caused by free radicals, as well as
a high Vitamin C count that helps with forming
collagen and strengthening skin.
Feeling Fruity
Pomegranate’s inclusion in topical exfoliants
is thanks to key anti-aging compounds that
help stimulate the skin cells and encourage cell
regeneration. An exfoliating gel like the VERSO
Enzyme Peel relies on Pomegranate Enzymes to
encourage healthy cell renewal, but it also has
antioxidant and antimicrobial benefits. In the
Pure Triple Peel by Akademikliniken, the cleansing,
smoothing, and brightening power is again
thanks in part to Pomegranate Enzymes — but
this time it’s combined with Papaya Enzymes.
Why papaya? Papaya contains an enzyme called
Papain which is known for everything from
tenderising meat to whitening teeth. But we’re
interested in what it can do for the skin, which
is plenty: Papaya is rich in antioxidants, vita-
mins, and carotenoids, plus the Papain Enzyme
is highly effective at dissolving and removing
dead skin cells. Papaya Enzymes also show up
ISSUE #11 | 2019 | SkinHealthMagazine.com 14