Perennial Planting Tips
CHRISTIE SCHLUETER
Perennial plants are the backbone of nearly ev-
ery fl ower garden. Unlike annual plants, which
must be replanted each spring, herbaceous perenni-
als die back to the ground at the end of the season,
and then regrow from the same roots the following
year. People grow perennial fl owers because they
are such easy-care, dependable performers, and be-
cause they offer an enormous variety of color, tex-
ture, and form. There are so many different species
and cultivars of perennial fl owers to choose from
that it is impossible to become completely familiar
with all the options.
When purchasing perennials, try to get the larg-
est, most mature plant that you can afford. The big-
ger the plant, the more quickly it will fi ll out, and
the sooner it will begin blooming. Typically, plants
are available in pot sizes ranging from a 3-inch di-
ameter to a 12-inch diameter. Pot-grown perennials
can be planted from spring through fall, and will
suffer minimal transplant shock.
Quick tips for perennials, and when
planting annuals
It is a good idea to put slow-release nitrogen fer-
tilizer around plants before mulching. As wood
mulch breaks down, it will use nitrogen in the soil,
so it’s a good idea to add some supplemental nitro-
gen fertilizer before applying wood mulch. Prior to
planting an annual, use a 20-20-20 granular fertil-
izer in the area. After annuals are transplanted in
the garden, try fertilizing with ammonium sulfate
(21% nitrogen and 24% sulfur). You should be able
to fi nd this in garden centers.
Hand water all transplants immediately after
planting. This also ensures that the water is going to
the roots. Check daily at fi rst for watering by feeling
the soil; go down at least two to three inches. This
is the best way to determine if any pot or plant is in
need of watering.
Some kinds of perennials, including asters, chry-
santhemums, phlox, and salvias, benefi t from being
pinched back. Pinching creates a bushier plant that
produces more blooms and is less likely to fl op over.
Pinch back the growing tips – using thumb and fore-
fi nger – once or twice during late spring. Not all
kinds of perennials should be pinched. If in doubt,
pinch a little here and there, and see what happens.
Some plants drop their spent fl owers and seed
heads. Others hold onto them for months, or even
right through the winter. Removing spent fl owers
will keep your plants looking their best, and often
stimulates reblooming. It also prevents plants from
expending their energy on seed production. After
bloom, some plants should be shorn rather than
deadheaded. This is true for creeping phlox, nepeta,
hardy geraniums, daisies, pinks, and lavender.
Most perennials prefer a pH of about 6.5, al-
though, some prefer more alkaline or acidic soil. If
you have trouble with a particular plant, check its
pH requirements and the pH level of the soil in your
fl ower garden.
If your plants look stressed during the growing
season, or if you see disease or insect damage, feed
your plants with a quick-release organic fertilizer.
Try a blend of seaweed and fi sh emulsion.
All plants die eventually, and some will die soon-
er than others, no matter what you do about it. If a
plant performs poorly, try moving it to a different
location. If it still is not happy, give it away or send
it to the compost pile.
When designing a perennial garden, think about
how you’ll get access to your plants to stake, dead-
head, or divide them. Flat rocks can be used as step-
ping stones within the garden. A walkway created
at the back of a border will be hidden during the
growing season, but will make the bed accessible
for spring and fall chores.
By keeping these tips in mind you will soon be a
perennial growing pro.
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