TRAVELSPECIAL
Much of the resort’ s power comes from solar panels on the jetty
Kind of blue
You still want to know about the blue whales? Well, we followed them at a discrete distance, the fatigue of our journey expunged by sheer jubilance.
An adult blue whale can grow to the length of a football pitch. Looking at the way they moved at the surface, I could well believe it. When they exhale, a plume of briny gas rises high into the air, water particles illuminated by sunshine.
Whale species have distinct personalities. Grey whales in Mexico can be super-friendly with boats, as are beluga whales in the high Arctic. Sperm whales are calm, but require a considered approach, while humpbacks are generally benign. Blue whales tend to be wary, so it’ s a case of keeping your boat a good 100 metres away.
All the same, we had an opportunity to drop snorkellers in the water well ahead of them, to see if one of the whales would grace us with a swim-by. We tried this twice, and perhaps there was a ghost of a shadow in the distance, but otherwise just the cobalt-blue water.
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Then, a third opportunity. Breathless, I remained on the boat, watching as the snorkellers slipped into the water. Among them was my buddy, BSAC’ s National Diving Officer and long-time snorkelling champion, Sophie Rennie. For a while, there was silence and the distant splashing of fins, then triumphant whoops through snorkels. A whale was swimming right under them. I remember thinking,“ I’ m simply never going to hear the end of this”.
Presently, the fortunate group found their way back to the boat, climbing triumphantly up the ladder. I had to smile: we had been privileged to see four massive, beautiful whales, and these guys had a glimpse underwater. My friend Miles even managed to get a decent photograph, although he spent the rest of the trip agonising over the framing.
Such is the human condition – even oncein-a-lifetime experiences carry a burden. At least it curtailed all complaints about the delayed flight... for a while at least. �
The blue whale, photographed by Miles Escow
Essentials
GETTING THERE: Fly to Jakarta or Manado via Singapore, then a second flight to Labuha via Ternate. It’ s a long journey and I recommend breaking it up with a few days in Bunaken or Lembeh.
THE RESORT: Sali Bay is a well-run resort with all the amenities you need for safe diving in a remote location. The 2027 price list has double occupancy( two people) for up to 10 nights for € 380 per night or single occupancy for € 260 per night, both based on full board. Diving is € 55 per dive for the first 10 dives, then € 50 per dive thereafter. The resort has a handy PDF of all its charges available on request via info @ salibayresort. com or go to www. salibayresort. com
TOUR OPERATOR: Dive Worldwide is offering a package with nine nights at Sali Bay from £ 3,395 per person. Includes international and domestic flights, all transfers, one night in Mando on b & b and all nights at Sali Bay with full board and 10 boat dives. Packages incorporating the Lembeh Strait or Bunaken Marine Park are also available. Details via diveworldwide. com or tel 01962 677653.
WHAT TO TAKE: Standard tropical kit, with no requirement for formal clothing. Light trousers are recommended to ward off mosquitos at evening meals, though a decent insect spray should do the job. Anti-malarial are not necessary unless you are exploring the rainforest on the mainland.
WHEN TO GO: The best time to dive Halmahera is during the dry season from March to November, with April and May marking the peak for calmest seas and 20 to 30m visibility. Water temperatures are generally 28-30 ° C, though we did experience occasional drops to 26 ° C caused by local currents.