Diving through the silversides at Spooky Channel
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hypnotic ball of thousands of glistening silversides pulses and swirls at the entrance to the dark cavern. Every tail flick sends a rolling wave through the shimmering mass. In perfect synchrony, like a murmuration of starlings, the fish fold and reshape themselves, blocking my path. My dive buddy has already disappeared behind the sparkling curtain, leaving me only one option – to swim straight through this shimmering wall. I’ ve never been engulfed by so many fish before. As the school swallows me, I find myself inside one of the most extraordinary underwater spectacles I’ ve ever experienced.
It’ s moments like this in Spooky Channel that have earned Roatán its reputation as one of the Caribbean’ s premier diving destinations. Perched on the southern edge of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the world’ s second-largest barrier reef system, Roatán is the largest of Honduras’ Bay Islands. Stretching for 37 miles and
lying around 36 miles off the country’ s Caribbean coast, the island forms part of an archipelago.
Roatán itself is an uplifted coral island, rising from an ancient reef to 270 metres above sea level. That geological history has sculpted an underwater landscape of sheer walls, spur-and-groove formations, caverns and coral reefs, many beginning just a short swim from shore.
For many divers, the best way to experience Roatán is from a liveaboard, unlocking access to remote reefs and walls beyond the reach of day boats. Favorable conditions allow itineraries to explore both the island’ s north and south shores before crossing to the neighboring islands of Utila and the protected marine reserve of Cayos Cochinos.
We start on the island’ s south-eastern coastline at a dive site synonymous with Roatán – Mary’ s Place. This legendary site is only accessible when the prevailing trade winds ease. I know we’ re in for something
Caribbean reef shark cruising the reef
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