The wrecks themselves were extraordinary. Giant cargo ships and tankers, relics of the Second World War, now serve as thriving artificial reefs. Coral gardens cloak decks and gunwales, while schools of fish sweep through cargo holds. For macro lovers, the nudibranchs here are endless, dotting the wrecks in every colour imaginable.
Surface intervals were just as rewarding. Island hopping took us to Black Island, where we snorkelled with sardines so dense they rivalled Moalboal’ s famous baitball. Evenings often ended at Coron Brewery, sipping craft ales while trading dive stories.
PHOTO: SIMON ROGERSON
Dauin and Apo Island, Negros Oriental
If one place captured the soul of our trips, it was Dauin. Staying at AivyMaes Dive Resort, we discovered a house reef perfect for spontaneous dives, day or night. After dark, colours exploded under torchlight and pelagic hunters abounded, as tuna and barracuda swirled around us.
From here we twice ventured to Apo Island, and both times it stole the show. Imagine drifting effortlessly across coral gardens so colourful they looked painted, surrounded by fish of every conceivable colour. One exhilarating drift dive carried us at speed over reefs alive with energy, a sensory overload of movement and colour. Closer to shore, Dauin’ s muck diving provided a different thrill – seahorses, pipefish, and critters that looked like they’ d been dreamed up by an artist.
A tiny coral hermit crab at Moalboal
Cebu: Malapascua, Oslob and Moalboal
Our pilgrimages to Malapascua, Oslob, and Moalboal were all about big encounters. At Malapascua, we ticked off one of the world’ s great bucket-list dives: thresher sharks, sleek and otherworldly, appearing from the blue.
In Oslob, we joined the controversial whale shark dives. Concerns about feeding and interaction practices are valid, but our dive centre told us the sharks come and go
Pristine staghorn coral at Apo Island
Taking a Break: El Nido and Puerto Princesa
Not every stop was about tanks and fins. In El Nido, we swapped dive gear for scooters, exploring secret beaches framed by towering limestone cliffs. In Puerto Princesa, we ventured into the UNESCO-listed Underground River, a subterranean wonder where stalactites hung like chandeliers and bats swooped overhead. Troops of monkeys and enormous monitor lizards provided plenty of entertainment on land. These pauses reminded us that in the Philippines, adventure waits both above and below the waterline.
Long-snouted seahorse
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