( gently ) at her fins . It sounds like horrific encounter , but it was completely clear to all present that this was just boisterous , mildly naughty behaviour . Despite the excitement , the sharks ensured they didn ’ t bump into us , though you did have to watch out for their scything fins .
Ghosts of Lamonoc
The furthest of Magic Oceans ’ dive sites is Lamonoc Island , a 45-minute boat journey north of the resort . It appears an unassuming place , but there ’ s plenty of evidence to suggest it was once Bohol ’ s ‘ cradle of civilisation ’, with some signs of ancient burials , tales of banished witches and animal sacrifice that persists to this day . There are even some examples of Stone Age paintings created by smearing hematite ( red iron oxide ) on the limestone walls .
Such ancient practices gave way to the present day belief that Lamonoc is haunted . No-one lives there permanently , but shamans still visit the limestone caves to sacrifice chickens for a relative ’ s health , or ask for a bountiful harvest .
Underwater , hazy visibility enhanced the eeriness of the place , but it was bristling with small animals . Specifically , this was nudibranch country ; we found about 20 different species over our two dives . The slug spotters were in heaven , and I set to work photographing the many-coloured molluscs .
The same dives yielded frogfish , porcelain crabs and a pair of black and white crinoid shrimps meeting ‘ face-to face ’ on a feathery arm of their host . These are the moments I live for , when the sea allows you a glimpse of its magic , something to carry with you and treasure . The ghosts of Lamonoc had given their blessing .
Crinoid shrimps enjoy a friendly moment
Mating nudibranchs at Lamonoc Island
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