Snorkelling in the seagrass
Indo-Pacific permit on the move
This fishy throng supports the overlords of the atoll ’ s food chain , the sharks . During our stay we enjoyed natural encounters with grey reef sharks , silvertips and sicklefin lemon sharks . It ’ s all part of the privilege of being the only divers for hundreds of miles .
Diving is not restricted to the barrier reef around Alphonse , as neighbouring ( and much larger ) St Francois Atoll is close enough for a quick visit , offering a different set of habitats . “ I ’ m always drawn to the more unusual sites ,” Juho said . “ The Eastern aspect St Francois atoll is more
of a gradual sloping , low-profile , rubbly plateau , which has some great potential for macro enthusiasts . We ’ ve found many interesting and rare critters there that you won ’ t see on our other sites .”
Diving operations in such a remote location err on the side of caution , as there is so little boat traffic . A trip to the recompression chamber on Mahe would involve an emergency aircraft charter . Maximum depths are limited to 30 metres , and you must dive with a guide , who will signal your position throughout the dive with a surface marker buoy .
Juvenile silvertip
Seychelles giant tortoise
Rust-spotted guard crab
PHOTO : MILES ESCOW
Camouflage grouper at Eagle ’ s Nest
56
PHOTO : MILES ESCOW
Atoll tales
Aside from the diving , my greatest pleasure at Alphonse was cycling around the paths , pausing to admire the resident giant tortoise population , or the amazing birdlife . Everything is quite spaced out , so every guest gets a one-gear bicycle to help them explore ( and make it to meals on time ).
The fly-fishers spend long hours under the unyielding sun , swaddled ninja-like in protective clothing as they pit their wits against the fish of the flats . I finally got to meet them at the bar , where guides and guests mingle to relive those epic struggles under the sun .
Some of the fishing groups would go diving or snorkelling on their days off , so