TRAVELSPECIAL
Divers investigating the depths of the Inland Sea
For example , the MV Karwela wreck [ a short distance off the Gozo coast and the scene of countless photographs of its enigmatic staircase ] has changed enormously in the last 10 years . Significant parts of the superstructure have been ripped off and strewn over the seabed by nature ’ s forces .
For me , such changes are part of the magic ; every year it ’ s like diving a new wreck . No matter how well I know a dive site , come the Spring I find that boulders have moved , weed beds have appeared or disappeared , and in some cases entire wrecks have shifted . One year , I swear that the winter storms had picked up the P31 patrol boat and moved it at least 20 metres .
On land the changes haven ’ t all been so positive . With the increase in travel and population , there has been a lot of building development on both the inhabited islands . But it ’ s still easy to find beautiful old farmhouses and ‘ Houses of Character ’ to rent . There are still villages that retain the old , quiet qualities of Malta and Gozo , while other places such as Sliema and St Julian ’ s have become ‘ Party Central ’. They have varied and plentiful nightlife , smart hotels and restaurants of all flavours . Thankfully , the small island of Comino has escaped the worst of it . Certainly , underwater Comino is still the paradise it ’ s always been , although at times the most popular sites can be ridiculously busy . Flexibility to dive timings is the key to avoiding the crowds .
All the islands offer year-round diving ; it ’ s very rare that the weather is bad enough for diving to be blown out completely . Here ’ s a simple rule : if it ’ s blowing from one direction , go to the lee of the island . It ’ s worth noting that if the locals are avoiding a dive site , it probably means the weather is changing and that site should be avoided . Local advice and knowledge can be very important for any unaccompanied groups .
Common octopus in hunting mode
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