The Arch before and the Pillars after
PHOTOS : STEPHEN FRINK
Farewell to Darwin ’ s Arch
After thousands of years , one of the natural world ’ s most famous structures has collapsed . Simon Rogerson explains what makes the place so special
The forces of erosion and gravity have conspired to rob the diving world of another of its natural monuments . Just four years after the collapse of Gozo ’ s Azure Window , the arch at Darwin Island finally gave way on 17 May 2021 at 11.20am , Galapagos Time . The timing is a matter of certainty , because it was witnessed by guests on the diving liveaboard Galapagos Aggressor III , who scooped the world ’ s press with an announcement on their Facebook feed .
“ Unfortunately today , our guests on the Galapagos Aggressor III experienced a once-in-a lifetime event ,” the company announced , ambiguously . “ This morning at 11.20 local time the world-famous Darwin ’ s Arch collapsed in front of their eyes . Some in the dive and travel industry are already referring to this now as ‘ The Pillars of Evolution ’. We will miss this iconic site .”
It is unclear whether the post intended that final word to be ‘ site ’ or ‘ sight ’. Darwin ’ s Arch was indeed an iconic sight , but the actual dive site signposted by the formation should be entirely unaffected by the fall of the structure . Though it would once have formed part of a larger version of Darwin
Island thousands of years ago , the Arch stood on a plateau about a kilometre from the remaining land ( Darwin is a volcanic creation , about 400,000 years old ). The plateau itself is a dangerous shallow area of swirling water and violent breaking swell ; divers are briefed to avoid surfacing in its vicinity .
Galapagos liveaboard itineraries are split between the cold-water sites of the south and the warmer , current-blasted sites of the north , the islands of Wolf and Darwin . These are truly wild , unpopulated places , guarded by imposing , 165-metre sea cliffs ;
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