UKDIVING
Always the networker , Saeed set up a dinner with Jim Standing , co-owner of Fourth Element . I wondered if Saeed was trying to avoid another evening at the Five Pilchards , but Jim ’ s choice of pub was a stunner . After making our way through the sunken byways of the Lizard , we emerged into afternoon sun and a river scene straight out of Turner ’ s sketchbook [ William , not Anthea ]. We had arrived at the Shipwrights Arms , as serene a setting for supper as anyone could desire . Jim was already there , having arrived , Bond-like , by paddleboard .
It was his first night out since the beginning of the pandemic – with a young family and a business to run , he had been understandably cautious . Saeed , meanwhile threw caution to the wind and ordered the Thai curry , which was good enough to win the Shipwrights Arms our unofficial pub of the week award .
Looking towards the Shipwrights Arms
Tough love at Lundy
There follows a break in the narrative , as your heroes briefly returned home . When we reconvened it was in Ilfracombe , North Devon , with one non-diving partner and one ‘ snorkelling , diving maybe ’ partner . Every year I help organise a group of friends on a ‘ dive and camp ’ trip to Lundy Island in the Bristol Channel . We always book the spacious catamaran , Obsession II , skippered by Andrew Bengey , or his son Ben ’ s similar vessel , the Barbara B . They are our passport to a pinniped paradise .
In my brief to first-time seal divers , I caution against expecting immediate attention . Usually , you have to swim around for a while , allowing the animal ’ s curiosity to kick in . Well , that wasn ’ t how it went down this year . We entered the water and were immediately ravished .
I believe that seal pups will always stop short of causing actual damage , but these ones gave it their best shot . At one point I had a seal on each fin , while a pale delinquent foraged between my legs and midriff , nibbling curiously at all points between . We named this character Bitey McWhitey .
Before long I began to fear for my 90Ninety drysuit , the superb new tri-laminate from O ’ Three ; its flexibility makes it ideal for seal diving . This was especially a risk when Bitey started obsessing over the suit ’ s padded knees . He seemed to know he was chomping something that didn ’ t feel pain but that didn ’ t make me a willing chew toy . Fortunately , I was able to scoot away from Bitey , amazed that the suit hadn ’ t sprung a leak . Eventually the seals calmed down , settling into their natural behaviour of torturing each other , rather than us .
Saeed and I bled our cylinders down for two and a half hours as we finned lazily around the sunlit shallows , a swaying celebration of kelpy green . As I watched my friend being upended by a couple of gleeful pups , it occurred to me that the theme of my summer ’ s diving wasn ’ t really wrecks , or marine life , or even photography . It was magical simply to be back in the water with a great friend , making the most of a British summer and loving every minute of it . �
* WITH THANKS to David Pratt of BUPG ; Mike Smith and Burntwood BSAC ; Andy Bengey and all at Ilfracombe BSAC for their support .
Sunrays at Lundy
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