TRAVELSPECIAL
Boo Window in the Misool area
BEST FOR Coral kingdoms
Raja Ampat
Indonesia
What to expect: Raja Ampat in north east Indonesia is one of the best places to see a coral reef in all its glory. The archipelago off West Papua comprises 1,500 small islands around the four main islands of Misool, Salawati, Batana and Waigo. In 2001, the ichthyologist Gerry Allen counted 828 species of fish over 60 hours of survey dives here.
If it’ s your first visit, liveaboards offer a taster of the whole area, from the fish soup of the Dampier Strait to the revitalised coral mosaic of the Misool region.
It’ s hard to pick out highlights, but in the north you tend to get beautiful formations of bright orange soft corals and sponges; the reefs at Wofo Island are dominated by forests of black coral. Black coral is named for its underlying structure, but its surface is covered in algae which can be rich hues of red, white and golden yellow.
Meanwhile, at Cape Kri in central Raja you may encounter bumphead parrotfish or even the oceanic manta rays known to frequent these waters.
Much like the Maldives, you need to be able to cope with current, hence dive site names along the lines of‘ Mayhem’, known for heady fish activity. If Raja has a signature look, it’ s a coral head dominated by sponges and gorgonian corals, surrounded by silversides and glassy sweepers. Photographers adore the ever-shifting fusiliers and sardines, which provide a dramatic counterpoint to the colourful coral. In the south at Misool, the reef is a tapestry of hard and soft corals patrolled by blacktip reef sharks. It is a genuine paradise, a oncein-a-lifetime experience. Don’ t leave without: A fish and coral species guide. You’ ll be forever wondering what the guides have found in this underwater jungle, at the same time as developing your own‘ hit list’.
Snapper school
Caloria indica nudibranch
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A liveaboard moored at the Fam Islands
Smugness rating: 100 per cent smugness attained. Raja Ampat is one of the last great coral reef destinations. While no place can be said to be utterly pristine these days, Raja’ s diversity and beauty have made it one of the most in-demand dive destinations.