Lowri Haf loves Criccieth beach, a shore dive in North Wales where alien encounters take place
Bobbing in blackness
Lowri Haf loves Criccieth beach, a shore dive in North Wales where alien encounters take place
Briefing: An illuminated thirteenth century castle, towering over a rocky headland, makes for a striking surface swim on a night dive.
The Dive: Most British diving requires a torch regardless of how much daylight we have, but I tend to clip my torch onto my BCD with more enthusiasm knowing I’ m about to submerge into the shadows. Variety makes a dive site for me and Criccieth has it all: boulders, kelp, sand. Melanie briefs me on her plan to navigate between all three.
We sink on to sea lettuce, which lays a vibrant blanket over blue-grey boulders. Brown strands of sugar kelp sway, mimicking the strands of my hair. Bright pinching claws of hiding spider crabs pop up between ribbon fronds, and occasionally a blue pair of lobster claws will appear from a gap in the crags. I almost worry about them tearing my drysuit, until I hear air escape past my ear and feel a familiar cold, wet trickle of saltwater seep down my neck.
The jungle transforms into desert. We scour the sand and soon spot a pair of eyes. It’ s the easiest way of finding flounders. With patience you can find their outlines in the sand – they can range from the size of your pinkie finger to the length of your hand. I’ m hoping to see my favourite night critter: bobtail squid, and diving with Melanie doubles my chances of spotting them.
Last time I saw two squid in Criccieth, we were further out and I was buddied with Dewi. Large and translucent, I couldn’ t be sure they were real. I re-spotted them later in the dive, unclipped my torch and clobbered Dewi over the back of the head with it. It was our own kind of sign language
PHOTO: ALEX TATTERSALL PHOTO: ALEX TATTERSALL for“ I’ ve seen a thing. Look!” but even then, I was met with a blank gaze and a shrug.
A kelp-covered stone dances sideways on orange legs. Dahlia anemones glow in response to the swipe of my torch, as do the spots of a small spotted catshark. Melanie flashes me, and I stare at her finger until my eyes settle on a glittering bobtail squid. They look figurine-sized, with big eyes and sparkling bodies. They’ re so beautiful I can’ t fathom that they exist on our shores. I watch it bob around before settling on the sand. It tosses sand on itself until it becomes completely camouflaged except for its eyes.
I look up and watch the water ripple intricate lines above me. We surface, inflate our BCDs and fin backwards, facing the illuminated walls of Criccieth Castle. To my left is Cardigan Bay. Beneath me is a world of wonder, and somewhere behind me is our shore cover handing out cups of coffee.
Debrief: This night dive encapsulates my love of local diving. It showcases culturalhistorical landmarks, diversity of sea life, and the benefits of diving with a branch of passionate divers.
Bobtail squid, a night dive treasure
35