UKDIVING
The inspiration
As a final treat , Shane found a baitball of mackerel towards the end of the day , and having established there weren ’ t any humpback whales likely to burst up through the surface and swallow us , Shane suggested we could try to snorkel with the fish . It was an incredibly intense patch of sea – pure Hebrides – with more jellies than I have seen anywhere , and the surface rubbery with salps . The mackerel were beautiful , moving with incredible speed and co-ordination , a perfect symbol for the energy of our northern seas .
We felt bad for our departed friends , but we couldn ’ t suppress our triumph that evening , as beers flowed at the Coll Hotel . For Alex , it was a relief not just to see a basking shark , but to share its environment and get a sense of its immensity . “ Those sharks are just majestic ,” he said . To have something so big go so close right past you was incredible . There was no fear at all , just an amazement that these huge creatures are out there in UK waters .”
It was a rare privilege to swim with such giants , but my inspiration on this trip came equally from the people I met . This was a group that made the best of every situation and squeezed every bit of value from their visit to Coll . I still smile when I remember Andy leading a last-gasp snorkel around Arinagour Bay , or Alex leaping in for an impromptu wild swim at Loch Ballyhaugh . I remember the lot of them striding over the white sand like the heroes they are , utterly in love with the sea . �
Low tide at Arinagour
Essentials
Getting there : Oban in West Scotland is your embarkation point for Coll . There are intermittent ferry times throughout the weekly schedule ( some crossings take vehicles , others only foot passengers ), so book in advance to match your ferry to your booked basking days . www . calmac . co . uk
Diving Services : Basking Shark Scotland is the operation with the most experience , the best boats and a proven record of putting people safely in the water with giant prehistoric sharks . The success rate is pretty reliable and last year our group was the only not to see sharks on their allotted days . Shane ’ s website is packed with useful information www . baskingsharkscotland . co . uk
Accommodation : SCUBA recommends Tigh na Mara , a guesthouse run by the wonderful Paula and Angus Smalley . During our stay Paula went out of her way to help visitors , even going so far as to provide delicious meals for her guests when the Coll Hotel ’ s restaurant was full . There are seven comfortable rooms in a beautiful setting overlooking the bay , very close to the jetty . http :// tnmcoll . com
The money-saving option is the self-catering Coll Bunkhouse www . collbunkhouse . com , though availability was severely restricted last year due to Covid . Otherwise , the money-no-object option is the Coll Hotel www . collhotel . com
Eats and treats : Coll has a café that was closed during SCUBA ’ s visit , but is expected to reopen during the 2021 season . We can recommend the restaurant at the Coll Hotel , which serves high quality Scottish produce . Book well in advance : tel 01879 230334 , email info @ collhotel . com
Alex takes on Loch Ballyhaugh
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