Scuba Diver Ocean Planet Issue 2/2016 | Page 88

BIG ANIMALS AND LITTLE CRITTERS OCEANIA Tonga By TIM ROCK There are very few places in the world where people can enjoy the grace and majesty of humpback whales in their natural habitat, and the waters of Tonga may well be the most famous. Watching the interaction between mother and calf is an amazing experience that keeps people returning year after year to observe how they bond and move as a pair. The males can get into fights over the right to mate with a female, and the resulting spectacle of huge whales fighting in the open ocean is nothing short of jaw-dropping. Only snorkelling is allowed, and no more than four snorkellers, along with your registered guide, can be in the water at a time. The guide tries to best position snorkellers to see the whales without encroaching on the animals’ personal space. If you are photographing or filming, make sure your guide understands this and positions you as best they can with your back to the sun for optimum lighting – as strobes and video lights won’t be of much use on such big subjects. By far, Vava‘u, Tonga’s northern island group, is the most popular spot in the kingdom to interact with humpbacks, while Ha‘apai, the central island group, is also a beautiful setting to pursue these most impressive creatures of the ocean. 13 13. The opportunity to interact with Tonga’s biggest marine creatures makes it worth the trek to this far-flung kingdom PRACTICALITIES WHEN The humpbacks migrate from Antarctica to Tonga to calve and mate in Tonga’s winter season. July through very early October are the best months with August into early September considered the height of the season. HOW Flights into the Tongan capital, Nuku‘alofa, come mainly from Fiji and New Zealand. From Nuku‘alofa take a domestic flight to Vava‘u or Ha‘apai. STAY/DIVE • Dolphin Pacific Diving (www.dolphinpacificdiving.com) • Whale Discoveries (www.whalediscoveries.com) TOPSIDE Procure a beautiful bone carving from the morning market, drop by one of the many small restaurants in Vava‘u, and kick back with the locals and a glass of kava. ENTRY For nationals of most countries, visas are not required for stays of up to 30 days. SDOP 86