6
CUBA
Jardines de la Reina
By MICHAEL AW
A remote archipelago of a thousand low-lying islands embraced
by lush mangrove swamp, Jardines de la Reina, or “Gardens of
the Queen”, is a veritable underwater time capsule – a place
that has never been fished commercially nor seen any industry
of any kind. Marine biologists regard it as the last jewel of the
Caribbean islands.
The park boasts the largest preserved coral reef system of
the entire Caribbean. It is home to endangered Nassau and
Goliath groupers as well as crucial nesting sites for the critically
endangered hawksbill turtle. The park is also reputed to harbour
an amazing diversity of sharks – including silky, Caribbean reef,
blacktip, lemon, nurse, great hammerhead and whale sharks –
sentinel species indicative of a healthy ecosystem.
For the intrepid diver, however, the most exhilarating
experience is a face-to-face encounter with the most fearsome
creature of the lot: a two-to-three-metre-sized American
saltwater crocodile. These animals are the engineers of the
mangrove islands, creating passages and
corridors through the enchanting foliage,
6. Cuba’s American
and there is no better place for this once-insaltwater crocs are sure
a-lifetime adrenaline rush than facing these
to get your pulse racing
ancient reptiles in the clear, shallow water.
PRACTICALITIES
WHEN
Jardines de la Reina Marine Park is
open year round. However, note
that Saturday morning is the only
departure to the park, and Friday is
the only day to return.
HOW
There are direct flights to Havana
from Toronto, London, Frankfurt,
Paris, Moscow, and more. Stay
overnight for the 4am, six-hour
coach transfer to Jucaro in the
south. From there, it is a 2.5-hour
speedboat or liveaboard transfer to
the reserve.
STAY/DIVE
• Avalon Diving Center
(www.cubandivingcenters.com)
is the only operator, but they
offer everything from budget
liveaboards to the high-end
Avalon Fleet I and II. The best
option is to stay on Tortuga, a
spacious floating hotel.
TOPSIDE
In Havana, stroll along the Malecón
for sublime views of the bay,
check out Cuba’s premier maritime
museum, Castillo de la Real Fuerza,
and pay a visit to a cigar factory in
Old Havana.
ENTRY
Most foreign visitors can purchase
a tourist visa, known as a tourist
card, on arrival (USD25). Valid for a
single entry, it allows the holder to
stay in Cuba for up to 30 days.