04
and a thin wetsuit. Then, approaching the rocky
shallows, the surface barking extends underwater.
The enormous bulls, weighing some 350 kilograms,
are very vocal in their territorial patrols, moving
with incredible agility. Their presence is certainly
intimidating, especially as they charge with their
teeth bared, and I did have a couple of “heart-inthe-mouth”. Back on board, I told of my encounter
with a large male that had me pinned to a rock and
the captain showed me a large scar on his arm from
a male sea lion bite. The females, very graceful in
their movement, divide their time between basking
on the surface in large harems and frolicking with
their ever-playful pups. It is these juveniles that
are the highlight for many: cute and curious little
nibblers that use divers and snorkellers as playthings,
grabbing fins and mouthing bubbles, sometimes
giving a playful nip, at times a little too hard.
As ever, timing is important to get the optimum
pup experience. Too early means overprotective
parents and overly-cautious pups, too late and
territorial preparations are already underway for
the next brood. Boat captain opinions differ, but
between early September and mid-November
is ideal, before the waters cool and visibility
deteriorates. For photography, morning is ideal as
the waters turn murky with sea lion waste later in
the day.SIGNATURE DIVE
03 Juvenile Californian
05 Rich and abundant
04 Juvenile sea
06 The critters are
sea lions are an absolute
treat to be around and
interact with
lions are wonderfully
inquisitive and just
love to play, under the
careful and watchful
eyes of their parents,
of course
05
SIGNATURE DIVE SITES
1 Salvatierra wreck – Depth: 18m; level: novice;
highlight: coral growth and schooling fish.
The Salvatierra is one of three wrecks in the local
area and my favourite for marine life. A cargo ferry,
it sank in 1976 moments after striking Swanee Rock.
Of the hundreds of passengers, thankfully not one
life was lost. It lies on a sandy bottom at 18 metres.
Penetration is limited but coral growth is outstanding
and marine life plentiful. Much of the reef structure
is shades of yellow, orange and red, which contrast
beautifully with the blue water (except during times
of poor visibility).
2 El Bajo – Marisla Seamount – Depth: 18–30m;
level: Advanced Open Water; highlight:
hammerhead schools.
An exposed site requiring optimum conditions,
El Bajo is a series of three distinct underwater peaks
with tops ranging from 18 to 24 metres. The central,
shallowest peak is the normal mooring point and
main dive site. This has been one of the premier dive
sites in the world for schooling hammerhead sharks,
soft corals growing on
the wreckage of the
Salvatierra
strangely familiar if
you have dived around
the Coral Triangle.
This friendly-looking
pufferfish was very
curious at our presence
06