SCUBA December 2023 issue 141 | Page 52

The Breakers jetty
vehicles , unlocked , this enabled seawater to enter the vessel at great velocity ; and within 20 minutes the Salem Express had sunk completely , coming to rest on her starboard side , 32 metres below the surface .
While the true number of casualties may never be known , official records state that a combined figure of 485 passengers and crew died during the tragedy . Only 179 survived .
Whether you opt to dive the Salem Express is a personal choice . Many who do , prefer to confine their exploration to the exterior of the wreck . While there are no restrictions on penetration , divers should nevertheless respect those whose remains still lie within the confines of the ship .
My schedule would only offer up an opportunity to dive the Salem once ; wishing to capture the essence of the wreck from the outside , it made my own decision an easy one . Despite her long immersion , there ’ s not a massive amount of encrusting life on the upturned hull .
Both the Lodge and the Orca Dive Club diving centre are German-run , and as you ’ d expect the majority of their customers are also of that nationality There were a smattering of other European accents too , but as is the case these days almost everyone spoke English as a second language .
Diving is operated on a full-day ( two-dive ) or half day ( single dive ) basis from a fleet of excellent , roomy hard boats with welldrilled crews . These depart from the nearby Somabay Marina and a shuttle service transports divers and kit over the short , five-minute trip .
If boat diving isn ’ t enough for you , there ’ s also an excellent house reef . Located at the end of the resort ’ s 420m-long jetty , it ’ s also one of the few places in Egypt where night diving can be enjoyed from the shore .
It ’ s all very easy-going and relaxed with nothing too much trouble to the excellent dive centre staff whose knowledge and familiarity with the sites is second to none .
Local wreck dives
The tragic loss of life on the wreck of the Salem Express leaves many divers conflicted over the question of to dive or not to dive the remains of this 115-metre-long roll on / roll off passenger ferry . Launched in 1964 , the French-built Fred Scamaroni ( as she was originally named ), embarked on her final voyage in December 1991 .
The majority of her passengers were Egyptians returning from a pilgrimage to Mecca . After a two-day delay due to technical issues , she eventually departed from Jeddah on the 450 Mile , 36-hour journey , only to find sea conditions had worsened .
Captain Hassan Moro , a veteran of the route since 1988 , made the fateful decision to take a shortcut between Panama and Hydnam Reef , where the Express veered off course , striking her bow on the reef and puncturing her hull . With the bow door , used for loading
Salem Express shipwreck
In fact , it ’ s still possible to make out both her name and a large ‘ S ’ encircled by laurel leaves on her port side . Although I ’ m told visibility was less than is normal on the day , it was still more than enough to appreciate the size of the vessel .
The Salem ’ s masts , broken lifeboat davits , bollards and rails reach outwards from the deck to frame the tragic scene while her massive propellers provide a sense of scale alongside visiting divers . A solitary lifeboat lies on the seabed , serving as a reminder that the vessel sank so rapidly that only one lifeboat was able to launch successfully .
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The spacious dive boat